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840	3200	Hello, friends. Joe here from HackerBoxes.
3200	6280	Welcome to this build session for HackerBox 0057.
6280	10000	This is an extension to our Learn to Solder workshop
10000	12240	that we're doing with the Hardware Hacking Village
12240	15200	as part of DEF CON 28 Safe Mode.
15200	18000	Hope everyone's being safe. Hope you're having a great time.
18000	20680	So, HackerBox is the original monthly subscription box
20680	25920	for DIY electronics, computer enthusiasts, and hacker culture.
25920	29980	The theme of this particular HackerBox, HackerBox 57,
29980	32080	is Safe Mode.
32260	37360	So, the primary content item of HackerBox 0057
37360	38680	that we're working on here
38680	45000	is this really cool kit to build this exclusive indie badge,
45000	47300	which we'll talk about more in a second.
47300	52000	This HackerBox also includes a practice lock
52000	55540	for practicing lockpicking and a set of lockpicks.
55580	57460	There's also some exclusive items.
57460	62560	There's a branded tube bandana that can be used as a Safe Mode mask.
62560	65240	It has a really cool circuit board pattern on it.
65240	68340	There's also some cool hacker stickers.
68340	72140	There's an exclusive lapel pin that has our logo,
72140	75100	our BitHead logo, wearing a mask.
75100	79860	It's a special Safe Mode lapel pin.
80720	83040	Let's see, there's also a USB cable.
83040	86580	Oh, there's an IR remote controller that lets you control your PC.
86580	89320	It's kind of like a remote control mouse to use for presentations.
89320	92200	It also lets you control media functions,
92200	97260	such as turning volume up and down and jumping tracks.
97740	101100	Interestingly, because of the IR features of our indie badge kit,
101100	103780	you can use that remote control, that IR remote control,
103780	106660	to do some cool things with the badge as well.
107560	113420	All right, so the badge kit itself will let you build up this badge.
113420	121520	Of course, it has a pretty nifty PCB with the HackerBox logo on it as its basis.
121700	128930	And then the processing module on it is called an ESP32T display module.
129200	130980	Of course, it includes the ESP32.
130980	134060	A lot of us are pretty familiar with this microcontroller.
134640	140260	This microcontroller has a dual-core 32-bit LX6 microprocessor
140260	142300	that can run up to 240 MHz.
142300	144740	So it's very full-featured for a microcontroller.
144900	147940	It also has built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth,
148240	152960	a whole bunch of bus interfaces, all the standard stuff, a lot of GPIOs.
152960	155480	This particular version of it, the T-Display,
155480	161220	has an onboard IPS full-color display.
161220	163840	It's a 240x135 display.
163840	166120	It looks really sharp at that small size.
166120	167660	It's actually quite a lot of pixels.
167680	169840	It has a built-in USB-C interface.
169840	171760	It also has a battery charger.
171760	173180	You can connect a LiPo battery to it,
173180	176680	and it'll keep it charged when it's plugged into USB power.
176840	184840	The kit for this board also includes RCA interfaces for audio and video out.
184920	189080	This can do composite video and audio out,
189080	193020	sort of like what we used to have on the older 8-bit computers.
194420	199760	You may have had a composite output on your Commodore 64 or Apple II computer back in the day,
199760	201920	if you're as old as I am.
202100	205640	So there's also a little five-way joystick.
205640	208320	It's a little tiny joystick. It's a surface-mounted device.
208540	210200	And there's a couple of buttons.
210200	214520	So with this joystick and these two buttons, you can do a lot of nice controls.
214520	220440	There's an infrared receiver and an infrared LED for doing IR blasting.
220440	223700	So you can receive infrared signals and then blast them back out,
223700	225840	or blast out different infrared signals.
226540	230460	Let's see, there's also a little tiny surface-mounted buzzer there for making sounds.
230460	234280	So you can make sounds onboard and then also output audio
234280	239100	through the digital-analog converter built into the ESP32.
239100	240560	All right, so...
241100	247180	Oh, and of course there's a nice, colorful, exclusive HackerBoxes lanyard as part of that kit
247180	251260	that uses a similar graphic to what's on the actual box itself.
251980	256240	Great, so as far as getting started with working on this kit,
256240	259300	we really recommend that you take the T-Display device,
259300	262920	plug it in to your computer.
262920	266580	Just when you power it up, it'll do a little nice graphics demo
267500	271880	showing a little graphical image and then flip through some color screens.
272100	274840	So the advantage of doing that first off before you solder anything is
274840	276500	it just lets you know the thing works.
276500	279040	And then also what you want to do, so before you solder anything to it
279040	280840	or try to do anything with this little module,
280840	285720	we recommend setting up the toolchain.
285840	291380	So this is a good time to probably tell you that every HackerBox has an online box guide,
291380	296400	which has lots of different information about how to use the devices in the box,
296900	299080	for some projects it kind of gets you started,
299080	301820	for some of them it gives you all the build instructions,
301820	303280	sometimes there's some sample code,
303280	306560	or if it's a device that's pre-programmed, we usually try to give you the code
306560	311080	so that you can modify it and do other things with it and hack it and learn from it.
311080	316360	So the box guide for HackerBox 0057, the safe mode box,
316360	321620	has some sample code for exercising the badge,
321620	325180	but even before you put the T-Display module onto the badge,
325180	331420	there are all the instructions for configuring the Arduino IDE as a software tool
331420	335280	that can compile code for that board and interface to it,
335280	341280	and then also, quite importantly, setting up the library for doing graphical displays
341280	346860	and text displays on that little IPS display that's embedded on the board.
346860	351300	So when you go through and set all that up, then when you power the board up,
351300	353920	rather, after powering the board up, you can program it
353920	358100	and then just verify to yourself that your toolchain works well,
358100	364680	that you have the TFTE SPI library set up correctly,
364680	367960	and that you can program the flash on the board
367960	370600	and then have it boot up and run the code you put on it.
370600	373760	So that really builds confidence and lets us know that our toolchain is good
373760	378900	before we start taking it to the next level and putting the module onto the badge itself
378900	380680	and then start programming the badge.
382400	386080	Right, so probably now what we should do is just let's go to the overhead
386080	388980	and we'll jump into soldering this badge together,
388980	391180	and we'll just talk through it as we do it.
391600	396940	All right, so for this kit, we have a baggie of components.
397160	399700	We have the T-Display module and the PCB.
399700	402260	So these are the three things we're going to be working with.
402660	405540	Let's get the actual T-Display module out.
405540	412500	This is the module that has the actual display on it and the ESP32 processor.
412640	417600	The processor has the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth functionality built into it.
417600	421680	So this display doesn't have the pins soldered on, they're separate headers,
421680	428440	and it comes with a little wire JST connector
428440	435440	for attaching the LiPo battery to the battery charger circuit of the module.
449120	457580	All right, like I said, before we get to soldering this module,
457580	461340	let's go ahead and power it up and just make sure that it works fine.
462660	467440	Before we solder it, we want to go through and make sure all the tools can compile a program for it
467440	472860	and load the program with the correct library,
472860	479440	which is the tft-eSPI library for controlling the display driver.
493600	497260	Okay, so let's check out the actual PCB.
497800	500140	This is obviously where we'll be doing our soldering.
500140	504080	You can see it has a side that's a little blacker and a side that's whiter.
504280	509900	The black side is the one we'll be soldering the components onto.
509900	513500	So the front of this board, the silkscreen, is just used for some artwork.
513500	517380	So the silkscreen isn't on here. It gives it a nicer look when it's finished.
517380	520260	It's a little harder to build it, but that's kind of part of the fun.
520260	523640	So make sure you go to the box guide and look at the...
524020	527440	There's a placement diagram that shows where the components go.
527440	530900	So that diagram is sort of what would normally be on the silkscreen
530900	534880	if you weren't going to have artwork on the silkscreen.
534880	538220	So definitely check that out.
539900	542440	And we'll go ahead and start with these three resistors.
543380	547040	You can tell which resistor is which by measuring them.
547040	550560	There's a 220 ohm, a 330 ohm, and a 1k ohm.
550840	552800	1k is 1,000, 1,000 ohm.
552800	555840	You can measure them with a multimeter or you can just look at the little stripes.
558620	564620	This one that has an orange, orange, and black, that's 330.
564740	567680	So that's a 330 ohm resistor.
570160	574400	Go ahead and put it through and just bend the leads back so it holds it in place.
574600	578900	And then the 220 ohm resistor is the one that is red, red, black, black.
588310	590230	And then the 1k resistor.
590230	592530	So these go in right next to each other.
593690	598410	You can, again, make sure you look at the component placement guide.
598410	605850	Or if you can see really closely up here, those three resistors, it almost looks like they touch each other.
605850	610850	The holes for each neighboring resistor are very close to the one next to it.
612230	616230	So in order they go 330 to 21k.
616270	617910	Front order from left to right.
631950	635330	When the wire gets a little kinked on the front side, it's hard to pull it through.
637050	643640	You want to grab some pliers here to pull it through.
648680	653580	All right, so all three of these resistors are through and the wires are bent back so they're going to be held into place.
656610	658310	And we'll go ahead and get some solder on here.
658310	666790	So I have to apologize, the white artwork that's on the silkscreen on the back of this board makes it a little hard to get contrast.
668310	671070	But hopefully you can still see the soldering that's going on.
671070	682830	We're using the standard techniques that we've discussed in the Learn to Solder videos of starting with a very clean tip, make sure it's tinned, have a little solder on the tip.
682870	687310	Because the solder that's on the tip helps conduct heat into the work.
687570	700290	So we want to use the soldering iron to heat each joint up so that it gets a little warm and then bring the solder to it and let the pieces of metal you're trying to solder melt the solder.
700290	705250	Don't melt the solder just with the iron tip or you might get a cold solder joint.
706770	718350	And since there's not a lot of metal here, the vias, the through holes that these leads go through, there's not a lot of metal so they don't take but a very quick touch to heat up.
718530	720810	You don't have to hold the iron on there for very long.
721390	724650	That looks good, let's go ahead and trim these leads off.
724650	729110	This is where you want to make sure you're wearing your safety glasses and hold on to the leads while you cut them.
729450	731550	You don't need leads flying all over the place.
743200	755000	And as we discussed in the first Learning to Solder video, we want to make sure we're not getting a lot of chunks of solder around because solder has lead in it.
755000	762220	So when I'm cutting these, I try to keep the surface clean, my work surface, I wipe it down at the end.
762220	765660	And also when I cut leads, I put them in a little pile so I can easily throw them away.
766560	770200	Next we're going to do the surface mount buzzer.
777450	779970	That little dot just tells you that that's pin 1.
779970	784270	Pin 1 is at the top when the board is oriented like this for this layout.
786570	794380	So this is an example of a surface mount component.
794380	803940	We're going to basically just set it on the surface and get the pad that it sits on, get some solder on that pad, get it tinned,
803940	813860	and then get just enough heat onto the little metal lead on the side of the buzzer, just enough heat on there to melt some solder onto it.
813860	819380	We'll get one side tacked down and then flip it around and get some solder fluid onto the other side
819380	825360	and just make a nice solder flow that fills in the little L-shaped space between the buzzer and the PCB.
834340	838980	The buttons are oriented with the leads up and down.
840040	845200	They won't really fit if you try to put them the other way, but it doesn't matter if you completely rotate them 180 degrees.
845200	852480	There's no top and bottom to the button. We just don't want to have the leads going out of the sides.
852480	858300	Although if they were going out the sides in this configuration, you wouldn't be able to solder them because they wouldn't be over any pads.
859320	863240	It's pretty easy. Again, just tack one little bit down.
863380	870460	When only one part of it is tacked, you can heat it up very easily and move it around again and make sure all the leads line up over the pads
872160	879320	before you go ahead and commit the other three corners of the button to soldering.
890520	895740	You can see from the first one we did, we kind of go to the opposite corner. It helps constrain it nicely.
895740	902000	It's a similar concept to tightening up lug nuts. You want to kind of distribute the tension around.
904590	908430	I'm going across the... you can see there's some... that looks pretty good.
908430	914230	There's a nice flow, a nice shiny flow all over the lead and the pad.
916890	931850	We have one more pin on each one. And if you want, you can hit the original pin, the first pin you did, just to get it reflowed real shiny
931850	934150	and make sure all four of the pins look good.
937130	942270	Buttons are good. And the next component we're going to do is a little joystick, which looks very similar to the buttons,
942270	945470	but it has a lot more leads because it's actually a five-way joystick.
945470	950890	So it has a lead for up, down, left, right, and then it has a lead for center, which is when you're just pushing it straight down.
950890	962710	And then there's a common lead, which in this design, if you check out the schematic, you can see that the common lead on the five-way joystick is grounded,
962710	969670	which means that the other terminals will all float.
969670	975270	So you should probably pull them up using the pull-up description definition for your...
975790	981630	when you do the pin declaration in Arduino, make sure they have a pull-up.
981630	988330	So then when you close that contact, it will go to ground and the ground will overcome the pull-up and it'll go to zero.
988330	995450	So when one of the contacts is not being closed, it'll be a high, and then when you close it, it'll be a low or zero or false.
999160	1004200	Now we're just doing this nice and slow, getting each terminal and making sure the solder flows really nicely.
1015690	1018910	All right, we've got our joystick done, we've got the buttons done.
1020530	1022010	We're cooking in here.
1032110	1037710	All right, so next we're going to put the T-display on, which has these headers that come separate.
1037710	1047430	So I'm just going to put the headers in here and then put something underneath it so that the headers aren't being pushed out by the desk,
1047430	1050570	just to make sure everything lines up right and it looks good.
1051110	1059150	I'll get it on here and we'll tack a couple of the points, a couple of the pins while it's in this position, while it's being held up.
1060170	1063190	And again, usually kind of work from opposite corners.
1067620	1074000	Make sure when you're doing this, you get the solder to flow all down in the hole.
1074060	1078360	And remember, when you see the smoke coming out, that means that you're getting the...
1078360	1080500	Let me cut this little tab off of here.
1081140	1089740	This tab is so you can pull the protective plastic off of the display, but I'm going to leave the plastic on there for now to catch any flux splatter.
1090200	1093560	When you see that smoke, what you see right here, some smoke will come out.
1093560	1098380	That's when the flux is being released and that's when it's the easiest to get the solder to flow.
1098380	1108100	So right as that smoke's released and the solder starts to melt, that's when you want to make sure your connection is hot and get the solder into the terminal.
1108100	1110260	So we'll look at this and you'll see there's...
1110260	1116900	We need to reflow this and drop that down against the plastic of the header.
1116900	1118220	There we go.
1118820	1121800	Let me get the other one. Yeah, so now that header's in there nice and tight.
1122340	1124480	That one looks good.
1126460	1127220	Great.
1129740	1133300	Put that back in. We don't need to solder the rest of them quite yet.
1133300	1140380	Let's just get it mechanically seated and make sure everything fits right and all the headers are all aligned properly.
1144710	1147450	Tack a couple of the pins all the way through on the other side.
1147450	1152930	For each pin, you actually have to solder it twice. You're soldering it once to the module and once to the board on the other side.
1155210	1166110	And again, just like we did with the top, just make sure it's sunken all the way down and it's completely seated properly in at least a few spots or at least the opposite corners.
1166110	1177010	And then once it's all properly seated, we can go through and make sure we get a good connection and flow on each pin.
1201800	1203820	There we go. It goes pretty quickly.
1204500	1208500	It's kind of a weird angle to try to do this underneath the overhead camera.
1212780	1222320	I like to try to avoid doing this right here where I get too close to this hole because I don't want to get any solder down there inside the T-Display module.
1222480	1225500	That would be a big pain and we'd have to take it all apart and clean it up.
1225500	1231620	So maybe just stay to the outside of these headers. Don't go near that hole and that void in the PCB.
1235820	1239380	I'm going to get these a lot quicker because I have easier access from this direction.
1243070	1249950	Always cleaning our tip a lot. Keep a nice clean solder and iron tip. Keep the solder flowing.
1289360	1291040	There's a couple more here.
1308470	1315930	Now we've just got to get all the pins. So there's 24 pins on this thing so we're having to make 48 solder connections.
1316490	1318910	This takes a couple minutes. Just take your time.
1320650	1328690	Like I said, leave that plastic covering on the display in case you splatter some flux up onto the display.
1335930	1339370	Just turn the temperature up on the solder and iron a little bit.
1347250	1348950	Yeah, that works a little better.
1348950	1360410	The posts in these headers are a little thicker than, let's say, the pins on an IC or on a resistor or something.
1360410	1365490	So it might just help that I turn the temperature up just a little bit.
1366930	1370510	Turn it up to 30. It looks like it's 360 here.
1403100	1405640	All right, there's this last row of 12.
1415750	1420450	It's nice when you have the pin and the through-hole very nicely heated.
1420450	1431730	You can see the solder almost gets drawn down into the hole and makes a nice shiny kind of cone shape onto the lead.
1431730	1441490	So you can see the solder totally wets down into the hole and then totally wets the lead in such a way that it fills it in all the way around.
1441490	1448930	It makes a nice clean, shiny, well-flowed connection.
1450750	1454370	All right, so there's our T-display.
1454470	1457250	So, bump the camera a little bit.
1468120	1471380	The display is all done, all 48 of those connections.
1471380	1476900	So, let's get on to this little driver transistor.
1476900	1486020	Notice that one side of it is flat, and if you look at the placement diagram, that flat is down. It's kind of facing the joystick.
1486100	1490480	So, make sure the flat portion of that transistor is in that direction.
1490480	1498320	And once you get it into place, if you want, you can fold it over and make it flush to the board, or you can leave it sitting up. That's totally your option.
1500480	1504440	Just to keep it out of the way of the display, I think I'm going to fold it down.
1504440	1509140	I kind of like the way that looks. Fold it right down onto its flat face, but you don't need to do that.
1513210	1521650	See, that solders real quick because the plated holes are very small on these, very thin. There's not a lot of metal there to waste the heat.
1521650	1527090	It just solders very quickly. It heats up quickly and solders quickly. We'll cut the leads off.
1535960	1544860	I'm going to keep checking back to our component placement diagram that tells us what direction to put things in.
1544860	1550440	That's definitely important, even though there's only two leads on this LED, it only works if placed in the right direction.
1550600	1559300	The short lead goes towards the flat side in the diagram, and I like to leave this sticking up about 3 or 4 millimeters so that I can fold it over.
1559300	1566720	And it gives it a nice edge-firing, edge-blasting configuration. I like the way that looks.
1567080	1578520	It feels like it's a little bit more like a transmitter, like it would be on the end of the board of a remote control, like a TV remote or something.
1579300	1587380	Just two quick leads. Remember the short lead goes on the flat side of the circle in the placement diagram.
1598140	1604560	All right, and just a few more components here, continuing on with our through-hole components.
1607690	1615150	A little ceramic capacitor. This is part of the audio circuit for the AV.
1615890	1622910	And with this, you could also fold it over if you wanted to. Unfortunately, where it's placed right there, it's kind of right next to the reset button.
1622910	1630930	So if you're going to use the reset button a lot, you might want to fold that cap over before you solder it into place, but it's not really a big deal. It's pretty small.
1632470	1637530	And again, the heat flows on that real quickly. Very nice, very quick.
1642440	1644120	Trim the leads off.
1656910	1664210	And I should mention, we can take the leads off of the headers on the back of the T-display to make it nice and flat if you're going to put a battery on there.
1664210	1669390	We'll just skip that for now. It's a little time-consuming, and everyone knows how to cut wires.
1669610	1676910	The display leads are not really in the way until we try to put a battery on there.
1678910	1684890	All right, and this is our IR sensor device.
1684890	1695070	You want to put it on there so that the rounded lens faces down towards the bottom of the board, away from the T-display, the ESP32-T display.
1696730	1711550	And again, that makes it so if you set the badge down, you can aim an IR remote at it, and it'll receive from one side, and then it blasts out of the top, IR blaster style.
1716460	1718580	So, that's real easy.
1718900	1727100	And all we have left is our two RCA jacks for our AV, for composite video, and our audio line out.
1744730	1751150	So the yellow one is the video out. We're going to get that here. That's kind of on the left side.
1751150	1755410	Again, check the component placement diagram on the box guides.
1755410	1763030	You're going to want to just get one of these, get just a little solder on one of these, and then, you know, check the positioning, make sure it's the right depth.
1764570	1769130	There's some, like, alignment holes on the front of these things that don't always work very well.
1769130	1771230	That's why we just let them hang off the edge of the board there.
1771570	1779610	Once you get the three posts soldered, it really holds itself in very well, but you don't really need those alignment holes at all, or even in the front.
1781950	1788590	And then once it's all positioned, we just get a lot of solder in there to make sure it's very mechanically stable and flows very well.
1788590	1797130	Because there's a lot of pressure, sometimes if you have a tight RCA cable, when you're plugging it on there, it puts a lot of pressure on that jack.
1797130	1799370	So you want to make sure you have it well soldered.
1800310	1806010	So not only for a good electrical connection, but to keep it, you know, very solidly seated from a mechanical perspective.
1806830	1822970	Again, we're going to get one soldered and then we're going to pick it back up and move, position the connector around until it's right in the right orientation and seated the way we want before we put solder on the other three posts.
1841440	1843040	Alright, that looks nice.
1844460	1846220	That's the last one here.
1863400	1872700	I see there's a little bit of the metal on the back there sticking out, so I'm going to heat that up and see if we can force it back into the housing.
1884130	1886270	There we go, looks a little better.
1886350	1890490	Now we can go ahead and get a lot of solder in there to hold it into place, now that everything's positioned correctly.
1891170	1896150	And that'll hold it real solid even when we're plugging cables onto it.
1896390	1903870	Pulling them off and plugging them back on, it'll keep everything seated properly.
1906090	1908910	Real good, real solid there.
1915990	1919190	Alright, there's our fully soldered up board.
1919770	1923870	We have some keycaps we can pop on the buttons and then also the joystick.
1927030	1930890	And if you have other buttons like this, you can put different keycaps on.
1931430	1935590	If you have other compatible caps, customize it a bit.
1943640	1947060	Alright, so the first sketch we just loaded on here was...
1948900	1953120	Again, this sketch is in the box guide. It's just a really simple buzzer demo.
1953120	1960300	And it does use the TFT eSpy library to just put some text on the screen.
1960300	1963940	And then it just plays some tones out through the buzzer.
1963940	1965820	So let's power it up and you can see.
1973510	1975710	A little Mario music there.
1975710	1986370	So this is a really simple program that you can look at what it does.
1986750	1992370	Like I said, it's fairly simple and it just shows you how to make some sounds on the buzzer.
1992370	1998410	So really good kind of first sketch to get running after you've soldered up this board.
1998470	2002570	Part of the reason for wanting to do that one first is even if the library gets messed up
2002570	2006630	or something's not quite working right or one of the pins is shorted or something for the display,
2006630	2015210	as long as you have that one wire that gets between the ESP32T display module and the surface mount buzzer,
2015210	2017210	there's only one wire necessary for that.
2017210	2021190	As long as you have that one wire right and you don't have a power ground short elsewhere,
2021190	2024190	then whatever else is going on, this sketch should work.
2024190	2025790	So go ahead and try that one out first.
2026050	2028570	If that works out well, which it should,
2028570	2034550	the next sketch to try out from the box guide,
2034550	2039830	there are a couple of links to different sketches within a library,
2039830	2046830	example sketches that do infrared receiving, infrared transmitting, and then also relay infrared signals.
2046830	2049670	So that might be a nice thing to try next.
2049670	2052170	They also exercise the serial output.
2052650	2057630	They don't use the display because they're not specific to this particular T-display module,
2057630	2059430	but they do some really interesting things.
2059430	2063030	Of course, you can add in some display outputs if you want to do that.
2063690	2071650	So trying out the LED blaster and the infrared receiver next, that might be a good next step.
2073250	2080150	Then probably another very simple one that isn't too complicated.
2080270	2081930	It's actually in the guide. You can download it.
2081930	2085610	Maybe let's go ahead and load it up, the one that exercises the joystick.
2085610	2087610	It displays the state of the joystick on the display.
2087610	2089970	So here, let me get that programmed on here.
2091530	2099250	All right, so on this one here, we've loaded the sketch from the box guide.
2099250	2101150	That's the joystick sketch.
2101150	2103350	So let's go ahead and fire that up.
2103350	2105610	So let's see how that works.
2107850	2110850	All right, so just says it's launching a joystick test.
2110850	2118770	And then when you put the joystick, you know, up, down, left, right, or press the center button on it,
2118770	2123690	it puts it on the display and you can actually do button A and B also.
2123690	2130090	And you can actually hold them both down to get A and B and then go down or down and sideways and in all at the same time.
2130090	2135410	And whatever these contacts you close on the joystick and switches, it'll just put it on the display.
2135410	2141330	So again, just a little sketch you can run that'll let you know that your soldering is right,
2141330	2144230	you've made all the right connections for the joystick and the two buttons.
2146750	2150190	So that, you know, exercises the joystick and the buttons.
2150850	2158790	You know, both of the sketches we've loaded use the display, onboard display.
2158790	2164230	And then there's some demos for testing out the IR in and IR out.
2165390	2171770	The easiest way to test the audio video is there's a really cool program.
2171970	2175610	There's a link to it in the box guide called Dawn of AV.
2175610	2185710	It's from Bit Loony. He wrote some really cool code that does composite output and an audio line out using ESP32.
2185710	2192410	So let's load that on there now and I'll capture the output so we can see it here.
2192410	2194210	Hold on.
2209500	2220400	Yeah, so outputting to the composite video and the audio line out is actually, it's pretty nifty.
2220400	2225700	It does require a little bit of trickery, but you can check out the Bit Loony's code and see how that works.
2225880	2229160	Those techniques are the same ones that are used in a really neat project called,
2229720	2237740	I think it's ESP8Bit, that lets you emulate Nintendo Entertainment Systems and 8Bit Atari computer systems.
2238620	2243580	It's really neat. There's a link to it in the box guide. It's really kind of fun to play with.
2243580	2252100	It uses the file system in the ESP32, so the flash of the ESP32 can be set up to have a file system in it
2252100	2258160	and make sure you follow the instructions clearly in the repo for that.
2259600	2266100	If you want to mess around with that ESP8Bit project, make sure you set the file system up correctly.
2266500	2274300	There's a lot of other cool projects in the box guide, links to projects that would be interesting.
2275300	2286140	There is a thing called the ESP Marauder, which allows you to extend some pen testing tools
2286140	2295660	to leverage the Bluetooth and other wireless functionality of the ESP32.
2295660	2296980	So that's kind of a neat project.
2296980	2303940	There's a couple other projects that are targeted specifically towards the T-Display.
2303940	2306840	So they'll use the display without too much modification.
2306840	2313280	Getting different TFT display modules working at the right resolution for different programs can be a little tricky,
2313280	2318220	but that's a lot of the fun that you get with working with these projects.
2318220	2324460	So anyway, this badge is a really nice platform because it has an ESP32 processor,
2324460	2327380	which there's more and more stuff coming out for it all the time.
2327380	2333020	And then it has some really nice IOs that are pretty easy to program, the buttons in the joystick.
2334520	2341700	You probably won't see a ton of projects out there that use the AVIO, but they are kind of neat to play with.
2342400	2349640	Like I said, there's some really neat emulation out there that uses these for doing some retro gaming and some 8-bit computing.
2349640	2358540	A lot of programs can be adjusted to use the particular driver for this TFT display.
2358540	2366260	It's a pretty common driver. It works with a lot of the libraries for doing full-color graphics displays with the Arduino projects,
2366260	2370920	and particularly ESP32 has the power to really do some nice displays on that.
2370920	2375120	So anyway, it's a nice badge. Hopefully you enjoyed building it.
2375120	2379620	Take some real pride of ownership that you made the badge yourself and you can program your own stuff on it.
2379620	2386760	Maybe put a picture of yourself or your pet or your logo or whatever on there and do some neat stuff with it.
2386780	2391760	Oh, we didn't get into it here, but the guide has the instructions on how to use these little pins right here
2391760	2398340	to put a LiPo battery on here that charges when you plug the USB cable in.
2398340	2404020	And then there's a little power switch, which came in the parts kit for this badge.
2404020	2408940	And that switch will let you turn the battery, the LiPo on and off, basically take it in and out of the circuit
2408940	2413800	so that you can turn the board off when it just has the LiPo plugged in without having to reach in there
2413800	2416700	and remove this little tiny JST connector.
2417380	2422960	Just remember, though, if you turn that switch off, it actually takes the battery completely out of the circuit so it won't charge.
2423040	2427720	So if you want to charge it, you need to leave it in there and maybe write something in your program to have a sleep mode or something
2427720	2433400	so that your sound and display aren't going wild while you're just trying to charge the battery up.
2434080	2439000	All right, yeah, so we hope you enjoyed this and hit us up with any questions at hackerboxes.com
2439000	2446040	or if you're watching this live during the Hardware Hacking Village workshops,
2446720	2452040	we'll be online in the Hardware Hacking Village channel in Discord.
2452320	2456080	That's the Discord for DEF CON 28 safe mode.
2456080	2463740	If you're seeing this later somehow, feel free to contact us at hackerboxes.com with any questions you might have
2463740	2467920	and keep an eye out for future Hacker Boxes.
2467920	2469720	We're always trying to come up with new things.
2469720	2472760	We have some really interesting stuff coming up in the next couple months,
2472760	2476260	and we usually have some nice things a couple months after DEF CON
2476260	2478840	because while we meet up and talk to all of our friends,
2478840	2481900	they always have a lot of suggestions for projects they've been working on
2481900	2484660	and ideas they might like to see in the future Hacker Boxes.
2484660	2487720	And for those of you that aren't too familiar with Hacker Boxes,
2487720	2492700	you should just know that it's kind of like a self-fulfilling community thing
2492700	2498240	because we get most of the ideas now for future boxes from members
2498240	2504520	who have been playing around with our previous boxes and are trying something new on their own
2504520	2507200	and then think, oh, everyone else might like this, and they send it to us.
2507200	2512740	And we've had some guest designers from our community to help us out with some of the boxes.
2512740	2516800	So if you've got some really cool ideas, please reach out to us. We really like that.
2516800	2522120	And yeah, live the hack life. We look forward to seeing you online.
2522120	2523420	Drop us a note. Bye-bye.