WEBVTT 00:00.840 --> 00:01.640 Hello, friends. 00:01.640 --> 00:03.200 Joe here from HackerBoxes. 00:03.200 --> 00:06.280 Welcome to this build session for HackerBox 0057. 00:06.280 --> 00:15.200 This is an extension to our Learn to Solder workshop that we're doing with the Hardware Hacking Village as part of DEF CON 28 Safe Mode. 00:15.200 --> 00:16.320 Hope everyone's being safe. 00:16.320 --> 00:18.000 Hope you're having a great time. 00:18.000 --> 00:25.920 So, HackerBox is the original monthly subscription box for DIY electronics, computer enthusiasts, and hacker culture. 00:25.920 --> 00:32.080 The theme of this particular HackerBox, HackerBox 57, is Safe Mode. 00:32.260 --> 00:47.300 So, the primary content item of HackerBox 0057 that we're working on here is this really cool kit to build this exclusive indie badge, which we'll talk about more in a second. 00:47.300 --> 00:55.540 This HackerBox also includes a practice lock for practicing lockpicking and a set of lockpicks. 00:55.580 --> 00:57.460 There's also some exclusive items. 00:57.460 --> 01:02.560 There's a branded tube bandana that can be used as a Safe Mode mask. 01:02.560 --> 01:05.240 It has a really cool circuit board pattern on it. 01:05.240 --> 01:08.340 There's also some cool hacker stickers. 01:08.340 --> 01:15.100 There's an exclusive lapel pin that has our logo, our BitHead logo, wearing a mask. 01:15.100 --> 01:19.860 It's a special Safe Mode lapel pin. 01:20.720 --> 01:23.040 Let's see, there's also a USB cable. 01:23.040 --> 01:26.580 Oh, there's an IR remote controller that lets you control your PC. 01:26.580 --> 01:29.320 It's kind of like a remote control mouse to use for presentations. 01:29.320 --> 01:37.260 It also lets you control media functions, such as turning volume up and down and jumping tracks. 01:37.740 --> 01:46.660 Interestingly, because of the IR features of our indie badge kit, you can use that remote control, that IR remote control, to do some cool things with the badge as well. 01:47.560 --> 01:53.420 All right, so the badge kit itself will let you build up this badge. 01:53.420 --> 02:01.520 Of course, it has a pretty nifty PCB with the HackerBox logo on it as its basis. 02:01.700 --> 02:08.930 And then the processing module on it is called an ESP32T display module. 02:09.200 --> 02:10.980 Of course, it includes the ESP32. 02:10.980 --> 02:14.060 A lot of us are pretty familiar with this microcontroller. 02:14.640 --> 02:22.300 This microcontroller has a dual-core 32-bit LX6 microprocessor that can run up to 240 MHz. 02:22.300 --> 02:24.740 So it's very full-featured for a microcontroller. 02:24.900 --> 02:32.960 It also has built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, a whole bunch of bus interfaces, all the standard stuff, a lot of GPIOs. 02:32.960 --> 02:41.220 This particular version of it, the T-Display, has an onboard IPS full-color display. 02:41.220 --> 02:43.840 It's a 240x135 display. 02:43.840 --> 02:46.120 It looks really sharp at that small size. 02:46.120 --> 02:47.660 It's actually quite a lot of pixels. 02:47.680 --> 02:49.840 It has a built-in USB-C interface. 02:49.840 --> 02:51.760 It also has a battery charger. 02:51.760 --> 02:56.680 You can connect a LiPo battery to it, and it'll keep it charged when it's plugged into USB power. 02:56.840 --> 03:04.840 The kit for this board also includes RCA interfaces for audio and video out. 03:04.920 --> 03:13.020 This can do composite video and audio out, sort of like what we used to have on the older 8-bit computers. 03:14.420 --> 03:21.920 You may have had a composite output on your Commodore 64 or Apple II computer back in the day, if you're as old as I am. 03:22.100 --> 03:25.640 So there's also a little five-way joystick. 03:25.640 --> 03:26.920 It's a little tiny joystick. 03:26.920 --> 03:28.320 It's a surface-mounted device. 03:28.540 --> 03:30.200 And there's a couple of buttons. 03:30.200 --> 03:34.520 So with this joystick and these two buttons, you can do a lot of nice controls. 03:34.520 --> 03:40.440 There's an infrared receiver and an infrared LED for doing IR blasting. 03:40.440 --> 03:45.840 So you can receive infrared signals and then blast them back out, or blast out different infrared signals. 03:46.540 --> 03:50.460 Let's see, there's also a little tiny surface-mounted buzzer there for making sounds. 03:50.460 --> 03:59.100 So you can make sounds onboard and then also output audio through the digital-analog converter built into the ESP32. 03:59.100 --> 04:00.560 All right, so... 04:01.100 --> 04:11.260 Oh, and of course there's a nice, colorful, exclusive HackerBoxes lanyard as part of that kit that uses a similar graphic to what's on the actual box itself. 04:11.980 --> 04:22.920 Great, so as far as getting started with working on this kit, we really recommend that you take the T-Display device, plug it in to your computer. 04:22.920 --> 04:31.880 Just when you power it up, it'll do a little nice graphics demo showing a little graphical image and then flip through some color screens. 04:32.100 --> 04:36.500 So the advantage of doing that first off before you solder anything is it just lets you know the thing works. 04:36.500 --> 04:45.720 And then also what you want to do, so before you solder anything to it or try to do anything with this little module, we recommend setting up the toolchain. 04:45.840 --> 05:01.820 So this is a good time to probably tell you that every HackerBox has an online box guide, which has lots of different information about how to use the devices in the box, for some projects it kind of gets you started, for some of them it gives you all the build instructions, 05:01.820 --> 05:11.080 sometimes there's some sample code, or if it's a device that's pre-programmed, we usually try to give you the code so that you can modify it and do other things with it and hack it and learn from it. 05:11.080 --> 05:35.280 So the box guide for HackerBox 0057, the safe mode box, has some sample code for exercising the badge, but even before you put the T-Display module onto the badge, there are all the instructions for configuring the Arduino IDE as a software tool that can compile code for that board and interface to it, 05:35.280 --> 05:46.860 and then also, quite importantly, setting up the library for doing graphical displays and text displays on that little IPS display that's embedded on the board. 05:46.860 --> 06:04.680 So when you go through and set all that up, then when you power the board up, rather, after powering the board up, you can program it and then just verify to yourself that your toolchain works well, that you have the TFTE SPI library set up correctly, 06:04.680 --> 06:10.600 and that you can program the flash on the board and then have it boot up and run the code you put on it. 06:10.600 --> 06:20.680 So that really builds confidence and lets us know that our toolchain is good before we start taking it to the next level and putting the module onto the badge itself and then start programming the badge. 06:22.400 --> 06:31.180 Right, so probably now what we should do is just let's go to the overhead and we'll jump into soldering this badge together, and we'll just talk through it as we do it. 06:31.600 --> 06:36.940 All right, so for this kit, we have a baggie of components. 06:37.160 --> 06:39.700 We have the T-Display module and the PCB. 06:39.700 --> 06:42.260 So these are the three things we're going to be working with. 06:42.660 --> 06:45.540 Let's get the actual T-Display module out. 06:45.540 --> 06:52.500 This is the module that has the actual display on it and the ESP32 processor. 06:52.640 --> 06:57.600 The processor has the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth functionality built into it. 06:57.600 --> 07:15.440 So this display doesn't have the pins soldered on, they're separate headers, and it comes with a little wire JST connector for attaching the LiPo battery to the battery charger circuit of the module. 07:29.120 --> 07:41.340 All right, like I said, before we get to soldering this module, let's go ahead and power it up and just make sure that it works fine. 07:42.660 --> 07:59.440 Before we solder it, we want to go through and make sure all the tools can compile a program for it and load the program with the correct library, which is the tft-eSPI library for controlling the display driver. 08:13.600 --> 08:17.260 Okay, so let's check out the actual PCB. 08:17.800 --> 08:20.140 This is obviously where we'll be doing our soldering. 08:20.140 --> 08:24.080 You can see it has a side that's a little blacker and a side that's whiter. 08:24.280 --> 08:29.900 The black side is the one we'll be soldering the components onto. 08:29.900 --> 08:33.500 So the front of this board, the silkscreen, is just used for some artwork. 08:33.500 --> 08:35.300 So the silkscreen isn't on here. 08:35.300 --> 08:37.380 It gives it a nicer look when it's finished. 08:37.380 --> 08:40.260 It's a little harder to build it, but that's kind of part of the fun. 08:40.260 --> 08:43.640 So make sure you go to the box guide and look at the... 08:44.020 --> 08:47.440 There's a placement diagram that shows where the components go. 08:47.440 --> 08:54.880 So that diagram is sort of what would normally be on the silkscreen if you weren't going to have artwork on the silkscreen. 08:54.880 --> 08:58.220 So definitely check that out. 08:59.900 --> 09:02.440 And we'll go ahead and start with these three resistors. 09:03.380 --> 09:07.040 You can tell which resistor is which by measuring them. 09:07.040 --> 09:10.560 There's a 220 ohm, a 330 ohm, and a 1k ohm. 09:10.840 --> 09:12.800 1k is 1,000, 1,000 ohm. 09:12.800 --> 09:15.840 You can measure them with a multimeter or you can just look at the little stripes. 09:18.620 --> 09:24.620 This one that has an orange, orange, and black, that's 330. 09:24.740 --> 09:27.680 So that's a 330 ohm resistor. 09:30.160 --> 09:34.400 Go ahead and put it through and just bend the leads back so it holds it in place. 09:34.600 --> 09:38.900 And then the 220 ohm resistor is the one that is red, red, black, black. 09:48.310 --> 09:50.230 And then the 1k resistor. 09:50.230 --> 09:52.530 So these go in right next to each other. 09:53.690 --> 09:58.410 You can, again, make sure you look at the component placement guide. 09:58.410 --> 10:05.850 Or if you can see really closely up here, those three resistors, it almost looks like they touch each other. 10:05.850 --> 10:10.850 The holes for each neighboring resistor are very close to the one next to it. 10:12.230 --> 10:16.230 So in order they go 330 to 21k. 10:16.270 --> 10:17.910 Front order from left to right. 10:31.950 --> 10:35.330 When the wire gets a little kinked on the front side, it's hard to pull it through. 10:37.050 --> 10:43.640 You want to grab some pliers here to pull it through. 10:48.680 --> 10:53.580 All right, so all three of these resistors are through and the wires are bent back so they're going to be held into place. 10:56.610 --> 10:58.310 And we'll go ahead and get some solder on here. 10:58.310 --> 11:06.790 So I have to apologize, the white artwork that's on the silkscreen on the back of this board makes it a little hard to get contrast. 11:08.310 --> 11:11.070 But hopefully you can still see the soldering that's going on. 11:11.070 --> 11:22.830 We're using the standard techniques that we've discussed in the Learn to Solder videos of starting with a very clean tip, make sure it's tinned, have a little solder on the tip. 11:22.870 --> 11:27.310 Because the solder that's on the tip helps conduct heat into the work. 11:27.570 --> 11:40.290 So we want to use the soldering iron to heat each joint up so that it gets a little warm and then bring the solder to it and let the pieces of metal you're trying to solder melt the solder. 11:40.290 --> 11:45.250 Don't melt the solder just with the iron tip or you might get a cold solder joint. 11:46.770 --> 11:58.350 And since there's not a lot of metal here, the vias, the through holes that these leads go through, there's not a lot of metal so they don't take but a very quick touch to heat up. 11:58.530 --> 12:00.810 You don't have to hold the iron on there for very long. 12:01.390 --> 12:04.650 That looks good, let's go ahead and trim these leads off. 12:04.650 --> 12:09.110 This is where you want to make sure you're wearing your safety glasses and hold on to the leads while you cut them. 12:09.450 --> 12:11.550 You don't need leads flying all over the place. 12:23.200 --> 12:35.000 And as we discussed in the first Learning to Solder video, we want to make sure we're not getting a lot of chunks of solder around because solder has lead in it. 12:35.000 --> 12:42.220 So when I'm cutting these, I try to keep the surface clean, my work surface, I wipe it down at the end. 12:42.220 --> 12:45.660 And also when I cut leads, I put them in a little pile so I can easily throw them away. 12:46.560 --> 12:50.200 Next we're going to do the surface mount buzzer. 12:57.450 --> 12:59.970 That little dot just tells you that that's pin 1. 12:59.970 --> 13:04.270 Pin 1 is at the top when the board is oriented like this for this layout. 13:06.570 --> 13:08.150 So this is an example of 13:12.020 --> 13:14.380 a surface mount component. 13:14.380 --> 13:33.860 We're going to basically just set it on the surface and get the pad that it sits on, get some solder on that pad, get it tinned, and then get just enough heat onto the little metal lead on the side of the buzzer, just enough heat on there to melt some solder onto it. 13:33.860 --> 13:45.360 We'll get one side tacked down and then flip it around and get some solder fluid onto the other side and just make a nice solder flow that fills in the little L-shaped space between the buzzer and the PCB. 13:54.340 --> 13:58.980 The buttons are oriented with the leads up and down. 14:00.040 --> 14:05.200 They won't really fit if you try to put them the other way, but it doesn't matter if you completely rotate them 180 degrees. 14:05.200 --> 14:08.560 There's no top and bottom to the button. 14:08.560 --> 14:12.480 We just don't want to have the leads going out of the sides. 14:12.480 --> 14:18.300 Although if they were going out the sides in this configuration, you wouldn't be able to solder them because they wouldn't be over any pads. 14:19.320 --> 14:20.560 It's pretty easy. 14:20.560 --> 14:23.240 Again, just tack one little bit down. 14:23.380 --> 14:39.320 When only one part of it is tacked, you can heat it up very easily and move it around again and make sure all the leads line up over the pads before you go ahead and commit the other three corners of the button to soldering. 14:50.520 --> 14:53.540 You can see from the first one we did, we kind of go to the opposite corner. 14:53.540 --> 14:55.740 It helps constrain it nicely. 14:55.740 --> 14:58.600 It's a similar concept to tightening up lug nuts. 14:58.600 --> 15:02.000 You want to kind of distribute the tension around. 15:04.590 --> 15:08.430 I'm going across the... you can see there's some... that looks pretty good. 15:08.430 --> 15:14.230 There's a nice flow, a nice shiny flow all over the lead and the pad. 15:16.890 --> 15:22.930 We have one more pin on each one. 15:22.930 --> 15:34.150 And if you want, you can hit the original pin, the first pin you did, just to get it reflowed real shiny and make sure all four of the pins look good. 15:37.130 --> 15:37.990 Buttons are good. 15:37.990 --> 15:45.470 And the next component we're going to do is a little joystick, which looks very similar to the buttons, but it has a lot more leads because it's actually a five-way joystick. 15:45.470 --> 15:50.890 So it has a lead for up, down, left, right, and then it has a lead for center, which is when you're just pushing it straight down. 15:50.890 --> 16:09.670 And then there's a common lead, which in this design, if you check out the schematic, you can see that the common lead on the five-way joystick is grounded, which means that the other terminals will all float. 16:09.670 --> 16:15.270 So you should probably pull them up using the pull-up description definition for your... 16:15.790 --> 16:21.630 when you do the pin declaration in Arduino, make sure they have a pull-up. 16:21.630 --> 16:28.330 So then when you close that contact, it will go to ground and the ground will overcome the pull-up and it'll go to zero. 16:28.330 --> 16:35.450 So when one of the contacts is not being closed, it'll be a high, and then when you close it, it'll be a low or zero or false. 16:39.160 --> 16:44.200 Now we're just doing this nice and slow, getting each terminal and making sure the solder flows really nicely. 16:55.690 --> 16:58.910 All right, we've got our joystick done, we've got the buttons done. 17:00.530 --> 17:02.010 We're cooking in here. 17:12.110 --> 17:17.710 All right, so next we're going to put the T-display on, which has these headers that come separate. 17:17.710 --> 17:30.570 So I'm just going to put the headers in here and then put something underneath it so that the headers aren't being pushed out by the desk, just to make sure everything lines up right and it looks good. 17:31.110 --> 17:39.150 I'll get it on here and we'll tack a couple of the points, a couple of the pins while it's in this position, while it's being held up. 17:40.170 --> 17:43.190 And again, usually kind of work from opposite corners. 17:47.620 --> 17:54.000 Make sure when you're doing this, you get the solder to flow all down in the hole. 17:54.060 --> 17:58.360 And remember, when you see the smoke coming out, that means that you're getting the... 17:58.360 --> 18:00.500 Let me cut this little tab off of here. 18:01.140 --> 18:09.740 This tab is so you can pull the protective plastic off of the display, but I'm going to leave the plastic on there for now to catch any flux splatter. 18:10.200 --> 18:13.560 When you see that smoke, what you see right here, some smoke will come out. 18:13.560 --> 18:18.380 That's when the flux is being released and that's when it's the easiest to get the solder to flow. 18:18.380 --> 18:28.100 So right as that smoke's released and the solder starts to melt, that's when you want to make sure your connection is hot and get the solder into the terminal. 18:28.100 --> 18:30.260 So we'll look at this and you'll see there's... 18:30.260 --> 18:36.900 We need to reflow this and drop that down against the plastic of the header. 18:36.900 --> 18:38.220 There we go. 18:38.820 --> 18:39.760 Let me get the other one. 18:39.760 --> 18:41.800 Yeah, so now that header's in there nice and tight. 18:42.340 --> 18:44.480 That one looks good. 18:46.460 --> 18:47.220 Great. 18:49.740 --> 18:51.120 Put that back in. 18:51.120 --> 18:53.300 We don't need to solder the rest of them quite yet. 18:53.300 --> 19:00.380 Let's just get it mechanically seated and make sure everything fits right and all the headers are all aligned properly. 19:04.710 --> 19:07.450 Tack a couple of the pins all the way through on the other side. 19:07.450 --> 19:09.810 For each pin, you actually have to solder it twice. 19:09.810 --> 19:12.930 You're soldering it once to the module and once to the board on the other side. 19:15.210 --> 19:26.110 And again, just like we did with the top, just make sure it's sunken all the way down and it's completely seated properly in at least a few spots or at least the opposite corners. 19:26.110 --> 19:37.010 And then once it's all properly seated, we can go through and make sure we get a good connection and flow on each pin. 20:01.800 --> 20:02.740 There we go. 20:02.740 --> 20:03.820 It goes pretty quickly. 20:04.500 --> 20:08.500 It's kind of a weird angle to try to do this underneath the overhead camera. 20:12.780 --> 20:22.320 I like to try to avoid doing this right here where I get too close to this hole because I don't want to get any solder down there inside the T-Display module. 20:22.480 --> 20:25.500 That would be a big pain and we'd have to take it all apart and clean it up. 20:25.500 --> 20:28.600 So maybe just stay to the outside of these headers. 20:28.600 --> 20:31.620 Don't go near that hole and that void in the PCB. 20:35.820 --> 20:39.380 I'm going to get these a lot quicker because I have easier access from this direction. 20:43.070 --> 20:45.070 Always cleaning our tip a lot. 20:45.070 --> 20:48.570 Keep a nice clean solder and iron tip. 20:48.570 --> 20:49.950 Keep the solder flowing. 21:29.360 --> 21:31.040 There's a couple more here. 21:48.470 --> 21:50.690 Now we've just got to get all the pins. 21:50.690 --> 21:55.930 So there's 24 pins on this thing so we're having to make 48 solder connections. 21:56.490 --> 21:57.730 This takes a couple minutes. 21:57.730 --> 21:58.910 Just take your time. 22:00.650 --> 22:08.690 Like I said, leave that plastic covering on the display in case you splatter some flux up onto the display. 22:15.930 --> 22:19.370 Just turn the temperature up on the solder and iron a little bit. 22:27.250 --> 22:28.950 Yeah, that works a little better. 22:28.950 --> 22:40.410 The posts in these headers are a little thicker than, let's say, the pins on an IC or on a resistor or something. 22:40.410 --> 22:45.490 So it might just help that I turn the temperature up just a little bit. 22:46.930 --> 22:48.610 Turn it up to 30. 22:48.610 --> 22:50.510 It looks like it's 360 here. 23:23.100 --> 23:25.640 All right, there's this last row of 12. 23:35.750 --> 23:40.450 It's nice when you have the pin and the through-hole very nicely heated. 23:40.450 --> 23:51.730 You can see the solder almost gets drawn down into the hole and makes a nice shiny kind of cone shape onto the lead. 23:51.730 --> 24:01.490 So you can see the solder totally wets down into the hole and then totally wets the lead in such a way that it fills it in all the way around. 24:01.490 --> 24:08.930 It makes a nice clean, shiny, well-flowed connection. 24:10.750 --> 24:14.370 All right, so there's our T-display. 24:14.470 --> 24:17.250 So, bump the camera a little bit. 24:28.120 --> 24:31.380 The display is all done, all 48 of those connections. 24:31.380 --> 24:36.900 So, let's get on to this little driver transistor. 24:36.900 --> 24:43.760 Notice that one side of it is flat, and if you look at the placement diagram, that flat is down. 24:43.760 --> 24:46.020 It's kind of facing the joystick. 24:46.100 --> 24:50.480 So , make sure the flat portion of that transistor is in that direction. 24:50.480 --> 24:57.040 And once you get it into place, if you want, you can fold it over and make it flush to the board, or you can leave it sitting up. 24:57.040 --> 24:58.320 That's totally your option. 25:00.480 --> 25:04.440 Just to keep it out of the way of the display, I think I'm going to fold it down. 25:04.440 --> 25:05.820 I kind of like the way that looks. 25:06.260 --> 25:09.140 Fold it right down onto its flat face, but you don't need to do that. 25:13.210 --> 25:19.470 See, that solders real quick because the plated holes are very small on these, very thin. 25:19.470 --> 25:21.650 There's not a lot of metal there to waste the heat. 25:21.650 --> 25:24.090 It just solders very quickly. 25:24.090 --> 25:25.650 It heats up quickly and solders quickly. 25:25.650 --> 25:27.090 We'll cut the leads off. 25:35.960 --> 25:44.860 I'm going to keep checking back to our component placement diagram that tells us what direction to put things in. 25:44.860 --> 25:50.440 That's definitely important, even though there's only two leads on this LED, it only works if placed in the right direction. 25:50.600 --> 25:59.300 The short lead goes towards the flat side in the diagram, and I like to leave this sticking up about 3 or 4 millimeters so that I can fold it over. 25:59.300 --> 26:05.400 And it gives it a nice edge-firing, edge-blasting configuration. 26:05.400 --> 26:06.720 I like the way that looks. 26:07.080 --> 26:18.520 It feels like it's a little bit more like a transmitter, like it would be on the end of the board of a remote control, like a TV remote or something. 26:19.300 --> 26:20.700 Just two quick leads. 26:20.700 --> 26:27.380 Remember the short lead goes on the flat side of the circle in the placement diagram. 26:38.140 --> 26:44.560 All right, and just a few more components here, continuing on with our through-hole components. 26:47.690 --> 26:49.670 A little ceramic capacitor. 26:49.670 --> 26:55.150 This is part of the audio circuit for the AV. 26:55.890 --> 26:58.690 And with this, you could also fold it over if you wanted to. 26:59.630 --> 27:02.910 Unfortunately, where it's placed right there, it's kind of right next to the reset button. 27:02.910 --> 27:09.550 So if you're going to use the reset button a lot, you might want to fold that cap over before you solder it into place, but it's not really a big deal. 27:09.550 --> 27:10.930 It's pretty small. 27:12.470 --> 27:15.970 And again, the heat flows on that real quickly. 27:15.970 --> 27:17.530 Very nice, very quick. 27:22.440 --> 27:24.120 Trim the leads off. 27:36.910 --> 27:44.210 And I should mention, we can take the leads off of the headers on the back of the T-display to make it nice and flat if you're going to put a battery on there. 27:44.210 --> 27:46.310 We'll just skip that for now. 27:46.310 --> 27:49.390 It's a little time-consuming, and everyone knows how to cut wires. 27:49.610 --> 27:56.910 The display leads are not really in the way until we try to put a battery on there. 27:58.910 --> 28:04.890 All right, and this is our IR sensor device. 28:04.890 --> 28:15.070 You want to put it on there so that the rounded lens faces down towards the bottom of the board, away from the T-display, the ESP32-T display. 28:16.730 --> 28:31.550 And again, that makes it so if you set the badge down, you can aim an IR remote at it, and it'll receive from one side, and then it blasts out of the top, IR blaster style. 28:36.460 --> 28:38.580 So, that's real easy. 28:38.900 --> 28:47.100 And all we have left is our two RCA jacks for our AV, for composite video, and our audio line out. 29:04.730 --> 29:07.590 So the yellow one is the video out. 29:08.150 --> 29:09.270 We're going to get that here. 29:09.270 --> 29:11.150 That's kind of on the left side. 29:11.150 --> 29:15.410 Again, check the component placement diagram on the box guides. 29:15.410 --> 29:23.030 You're going to want to just get one of these, get just a little solder on one of these, and then, you know, check the positioning, make sure it's the right depth. 29:24.570 --> 29:29.130 There's some, like, alignment holes on the front of these things that don't always work very well. 29:29.130 --> 29:31.230 That's why we just let them hang off the edge of the board there. 29:31.570 --> 29:39.610 Once you get the three posts soldered, it really holds itself in very well, but you don't really need those alignment holes at all, or even in the front. 29:41.950 --> 29:48.590 And then once it's all positioned, we just get a lot of solder in there to make sure it's very mechanically stable and flows very well. 29:48.590 --> 29:57.130 Because there's a lot of pressure, sometimes if you have a tight RCA cable, when you're plugging it on there, it puts a lot of pressure on that jack. 29:57.130 --> 29:59.370 So you want to make sure you have it well soldered. 30:00.310 --> 30:06.010 So not only for a good electrical connection, but to keep it, you know, very solidly seated from a mechanical perspective. 30:06.830 --> 30:22.970 Again, we're going to get one soldered and then we're going to pick it back up and move, position the connector around until it's right in the right orientation and seated the way we want before we put solder on the other three posts. 30:41.440 --> 30:43.040 Alright, that looks nice. 30:44.460 --> 30:46.220 That's the last one here. 31:03.400 --> 31:12.700 I see there's a little bit of the metal on the back there sticking out, so I'm going to heat that up and see if we can force it back into the housing. 31:24.130 --> 31:26.270 There we go, looks a little better. 31:26.350 --> 31:30.490 Now we can go ahead and get a lot of solder in there to hold it into place, now that everything's positioned correctly. 31:31.170 --> 31:36.150 And that'll hold it real solid even when we're plugging cables onto it. 31:36.390 --> 31:43.870 Pulling them off and plugging them back on, it'll keep everything seated properly. 31:46.090 --> 31:48.910 Real good, real solid there. 31:55.990 --> 31:59.190 Alright, there's our fully soldered up board. 31:59.770 --> 32:03.870 We have some keycaps we can pop on the buttons and then also the joystick. 32:07.030 --> 32:10.890 And if you have other buttons like this, you can put different keycaps on. 32:11.430 --> 32:15.590 If you have other compatible caps, customize it a bit. 32:23.640 --> 32:27.060 Alright, so the first sketch we just loaded on here was... 32:28.900 --> 32:30.680 Again, this sketch is in the box guide. 32:30.680 --> 32:33.120 It's just a really simple buzzer demo. 32:33.120 --> 32:40.300 And it does use the TFT eSpy library to just put some text on the screen. 32:40.300 --> 32:43.940 And then it just plays some tones out through the buzzer. 32:43.940 --> 32:45.820 So let's power it up and you can see. 32:53.510 --> 32:55.710 A little Mario music there. 32:55.710 --> 33:06.370 So this is a really simple program that you can look at what it does. 33:06.750 --> 33:12.370 Like I said, it's fairly simple and it just shows you how to make some sounds on the buzzer. 33:12.370 --> 33:18.410 So really good kind of first sketch to get running after you've soldered up this board. 33:18.470 --> 33:35.210 Part of the reason for wanting to do that one first is even if the library gets messed up or something's not quite working right or one of the pins is shorted or something for the display, as long as you have that one wire that gets between the ESP32T display module and the surface mount buzzer, 33:35.210 --> 33:37.210 there's only one wire necessary for that. 33:37.210 --> 33:44.190 As long as you have that one wire right and you don't have a power ground short elsewhere, then whatever else is going on, this sketch should work. 33:44.190 --> 33:45.790 So go ahead and try that one out first. 33:46.050 --> 34:06.830 If that works out well, which it should, the next sketch to try out from the box guide, there are a couple of links to different sketches within a library, example sketches that do infrared receiving, infrared transmitting, and then also relay infrared signals. 34:06.830 --> 34:09.670 So that might be a nice thing to try next. 34:09.670 --> 34:12.170 They also exercise the serial output. 34:12.650 --> 34:19.430 They don't use the display because they're not specific to this particular T-display module, but they do some really interesting things. 34:19.430 --> 34:23.030 Of course, you can add in some display outputs if you want to do that. 34:23.690 --> 34:31.650 So trying out the LED blaster and the infrared receiver next, that might be a good next step. 34:33.250 --> 34:40.150 Then probably another very simple one that isn't too complicated. 34:40.270 --> 34:41.310 It's actually in the guide. 34:41.310 --> 34:41.930 You can download it. 34:41.930 --> 34:45.610 Maybe let's go ahead and load it up, the one that exercises the joystick. 34:45.610 --> 34:47.610 It displays the state of the joystick on the display. 34:47.610 --> 34:49.970 So here, let me get that programmed on here. 34:51.530 --> 34:59.250 All right, so on this one here, we've loaded the sketch from the box guide. 34:59.250 --> 35:01.150 That's the joystick sketch. 35:01.150 --> 35:03.350 So let's go ahead and fire that up. 35:03.350 --> 35:05.610 So let's see how that works. 35:07.850 --> 35:10.850 All right, so just says it's launching a joystick test. 35:10.850 --> 35:23.690 And then when you put the joystick, you know, up, down, left, right, or press the center button on it, it puts it on the display and you can actually do button A and B also. 35:23.690 --> 35:30.090 And you can actually hold them both down to get A and B and then go down or down and sideways and in all at the same time. 35:30.090 --> 35:35.410 And whatever these contacts you close on the joystick and switches, it'll just put it on the display. 35:35.410 --> 35:44.230 So again, just a little sketch you can run that'll let you know that your soldering is right, you've made all the right connections for the joystick and the two buttons. 35:46.750 --> 35:50.190 So that, you know, exercises the joystick and the buttons. 35:50.850 --> 35:58.790 You know, both of the sketches we've loaded use the display, onboard display. 35:58.790 --> 36:04.230 And then there's some demos for testing out the IR in and IR out. 36:05.390 --> 36:11.770 The easiest way to test the audio video is there's a really cool program. 36:11.970 --> 36:15.610 There's a link to it in the box guide called Dawn of AV. 36:15.610 --> 36:16.810 It's from Bit Loony. 36:16.810 --> 36:25.710 He wrote some really cool code that does composite output and an audio line out using ESP32. 36:25.710 --> 36:32.410 So let's load that on there now and I'll capture the output so we can see it here. 36:32.410 --> 36:34.210 Hold on. 36:49.500 --> 37:00.400 Yeah, so outputting to the composite video and the audio line out is actually, it's pretty nifty. 37:00.400 --> 37:05.700 It does require a little bit of trickery, but you can check out the Bit Loony's code and see how that works. 37:05.880 --> 37:17.740 Those techniques are the same ones that are used in a really neat project called, I think it's ESP8Bit, that lets you emulate Nintendo Entertainment Systems and 8Bit Atari computer systems. 37:18.620 --> 37:19.540 It's really neat. 37:19.540 --> 37:22.360 There's a link to it in the box guide. 37:22.360 --> 37:23.580 It's really kind of fun to play with. 37:23.580 --> 37:38.160 It uses the file system in the ESP32, so the flash of the ESP32 can be set up to have a file system in it and make sure you follow the instructions clearly in the repo for that. 37:39.600 --> 37:46.100 If you want to mess around with that ESP8Bit project, make sure you set the file system up correctly. 37:46.500 --> 37:54.300 There's a lot of other cool projects in the box guide, links to projects that would be interesting. 37:55.300 --> 38:15.660 There is a thing called the ESP Marauder, which allows you to extend some pen testing tools to leverage the Bluetooth and other wireless functionality of the ESP32. 38:15.660 --> 38:16.980 So that's kind of a neat project. 38:16.980 --> 38:23.940 There's a couple other projects that are targeted specifically towards the T-Display. 38:23.940 --> 38:26.840 So they'll use the display without too much modification. 38:26.840 --> 38:38.220 Getting different TFT display modules working at the right resolution for different programs can be a little tricky, but that's a lot of the fun that you get with working with these projects. 38:38.220 --> 38:47.380 So anyway, this badge is a really nice platform because it has an ESP32 processor, which there's more and more stuff coming out for it all the time. 38:47.380 --> 38:53.020 And then it has some really nice IOs that are pretty easy to program, the buttons in the joystick. 38:54.520 --> 39:01.700 You probably won't see a ton of projects out there that use the AVIO, but they are kind of neat to play with. 39:02.400 --> 39:09.640 Like I said, there's some really neat emulation out there that uses these for doing some retro gaming and some 8-bit computing. 39:09.640 --> 39:18.540 A lot of programs can be adjusted to use the particular driver for this TFT display. 39:18.540 --> 39:20.040 It's a pretty common driver. 39:20.040 --> 39:30.920 It works with a lot of the libraries for doing full-color graphics displays with the Arduino projects, and particularly ESP32 has the power to really do some nice displays on that. 39:30.920 --> 39:32.840 So anyway, it's a nice badge. 39:32.840 --> 39:35.120 Hopefully you enjoyed building it. 39:35.120 --> 39:39.620 Take some real pride of ownership that you made the badge yourself and you can program your own stuff on it. 39:39.620 --> 39:46.760 Maybe put a picture of yourself or your pet or your logo or whatever on there and do some neat stuff with it. 39:46.780 --> 39:58.340 Oh, we didn't get into it here, but the guide has the instructions on how to use these little pins right here to put a LiPo battery on here that charges when you plug the USB cable in. 39:58.340 --> 40:04.020 And then there's a little power switch, which came in the parts kit for this badge. 40:04.020 --> 40:16.700 And that switch will let you turn the battery, the LiPo on and off, basically take it in and out of the circuit so that you can turn the board off when it just has the LiPo plugged in without having to reach in there and remove this little tiny JST connector. 40:17.380 --> 40:22.960 Just remember, though, if you turn that switch off, it actually takes the battery completely out of the circuit so it won't charge. 40:23.040 --> 40:33.400 So if you want to charge it, you need to leave it in there and maybe write something in your program to have a sleep mode or something so that your sound and display aren't going wild while you're just trying to charge the battery up. 40:34.080 --> 40:52.040 All right, yeah, so we hope you enjoyed this and hit us up with any questions at hackerboxes.com or if you're watching this live during the Hardware Hacking Village workshops, we'll be online in the Hardware Hacking Village channel in Discord. 40:52.320 --> 40:56.080 That's the Discord for DEF CON 28 safe mode. 40:56.080 --> 41:07.920 If you're seeing this later somehow, feel free to contact us at hackerboxes.com with any questions you might have and keep an eye out for future Hacker Boxes. 41:07.920 --> 41:09.720 We're always trying to come up with new things. 41:09.720 --> 41:24.660 We have some really interesting stuff coming up in the next couple months, and we usually have some nice things a couple months after DEF CON because while we meet up and talk to all of our friends, they always have a lot of suggestions for projects they've been working on and ideas they might like to see in the future Hacker Boxes. 41:24.660 --> 41:45.140 And for those of you that aren't too familiar with Hacker Boxes, you should just know that it's kind of like a self-fulfilling community thing because we get most of the ideas now for future boxes from members who have been playing around with our previous boxes and are trying something new on their own and then think, 41:45.140 --> 41:47.200 oh, everyone else might like this, and they send it to us. 41:47.200 --> 41:52.740 And we've had some guest designers from our community to help us out with some of the boxes. 41:52.740 --> 41:55.400 So if you've got some really cool ideas, please reach out to us. 41:55.400 --> 41:56.800 We really like that. 41:56.800 --> 41:59.860 And yeah, live the hack life. 41:59.860 --> 42:02.120 We look forward to seeing you online. 42:02.120 --> 42:02.880 Drop us a note. 42:02.880 --> 42:03.420 Bye-bye.