WEBVTT

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Thanks for joining us today at the Tool Lockpicking Village.

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The talk I'm giving today is key duplication.

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It's not just for the movies.

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My name is Tony Varelli, aka Byte Stealer, or some people just call me Byte.

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You can find me mostly on Twitter if you want to talk.

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And that's twitter.com at Varelli.

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I am a member of the Open Organization of Lockpickers, or Tool.

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And I'm based out of Iowa, and I'm a member of the Des Moines chapter there.

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So, I highly encourage you that after this talk today, stick around, keep checking out the Lockpicking Village in DEF CON safe mode.

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We're going to have a lot of great talks going on.

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A lot of really smart people when it comes to locks, bypassing them, and physical security.

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So, I highly suggest you stick around for those talks as well.

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Today, I'm going to cover two types of key duplication.

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The first one I'm going to cover is how you can 3D print a key.

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And the second one will be molding and casting a key.

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This gives you two different attack vectors, specifically because in option one of 3D printing a key, you never need access to that key.

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And with option two, we can go a little bit further with what we can do on complexity of keys.

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You're not limited to the key type, we'll say.

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So, first we're going to cover 3D printing, and it's way easier than you think.

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There's a few things you're going to need, obviously, which is a 3D printer, the material you need, and I'm going to go through that entire list now of what you need.

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So, first of all, you're going to need a 3D printer.

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The 3D printers I work with are an Ultimaker 2 Plus, and I also have a Prusa i3 MK3S.

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These are just the printers I own, that's why I use them.

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If you have your own printer, it should work well.

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Some lower end printers, sub 200, sub 100 printers might have problems with this.

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But if you're experienced with 3D printing, and you know how to really dial your settings in and get it configured just properly, you might have success with even some lower end, cheaper printers.

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A lot of questions I get about the 3D printers are, what size nozzle diameter do I use?

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It's a 0 .4 millimeter nozzle, and I normally print at 0.1 millimeter layer heights.

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You could get away with 0.2 millimeter layer heights, I just go for the 0.1, especially if you're doing higher security keys.

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And I use PLA plastic all the time.

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You could use something stronger if you wanted to, but PLA works perfectly for what we're doing here.

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The next thing you're going to need is the key you want to duplicate.

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Now, you absolutely do not need to have access to this key.

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I can't be the only person who has a friend on Facebook or other social media who is not security conscious, and they're new homeowners or something along those lines.

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And you see this picture where they're taking a big smiley picture and holding their keys up.

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If you get the right angle on that key, you can take that photograph and use it to duplicate a key.

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If you are a real world pen tester, and you can get a photograph of a key, for example, if you have the ability to walk up to a security desk, and on the background of the wall, there's keys hanging there, and you can get a photo of those.

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That's all you need.

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If you can get a photo and you can identify the type of key, you can use those to duplicate the key from a photo, which is a really cool attack vector compared to casting and molding a key, because that you do require access to the key for at least a short period of time.

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For the examples I'm going to show today, I just did a basic quick set KW1 key way.

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And then you're going to need a measuring tool.

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This isn't 100% necessary, but it makes life a lot easier, which is a key gauge.

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If you have physical access to that key, a key gauge lets you very quickly just move the key through the key gauge to get the bidding depths, the cut depths of that key.

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So you can quickly just know, okay, that's a one, that's a two, that's three, so on and so forth, depending on your key type.

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When you're working with photos of a key, though, you're going to need a pair of calipers.

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Calipers make your life super simple.

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You can get a cheap pair for like $20 or less on amazon.com.

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And digital calipers are... I prefer digital calipers because they just read off very quickly.

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And then if you're going to do photos, I highly suggest taking a look at Deviant Olaf's GitHub repository.

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He has a repository called Decoding.

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And on here, he has photographs for all these different key measurements.

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If you look on the screen, you can see just a couple like American, MasterQuickSet, Schlage, Sargent, EL, a ton of them are up there.

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It's a very awesome resource for decoding keys.

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Here's an example of a QuickSet one he has.

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It shows the entire key from tip to bow.

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And on that, it shows the spacing you need for the cuts.

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And then on the bottom right hand side, it shows the depths you need to make for each of the depths.

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So one depth is 8.36 millimeters, so on and so forth, all the way across.

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So it's very cool that you can use this for a reference.

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I'm not going to cover filing keys down, but this would be very good for that kind of reference if you're measuring to have that information.

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He also has photos on his repository that look like this.

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And where these come in use is when you have a photo of a key.

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So for this example, for this presentation, I just went out and searched QuickSet key on Google Images.

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And I got this key, I brought it into Photoshop.

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Now you can use any photo editing software you want.

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I happen to have Photoshop, but you can use GIMP or anything else.

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And what you do is you bring the picture in of the key and then you cut out the key profile for the most part and you scale it down to fit on the photo here that you get from his repository.

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So here's a picture that I brought in and scaled down off Google Images.

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Now it may not 100% line up all the time, depending on how much you fiddle with it.

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But the good news is that it doesn't have to be that precise to get a basic idea of your depths.

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So if you start at the bow of the key, what someone might call the back or the handle, and we work our way to the tip of the key, we can see here that the first depth cut is about a seven.

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Now I don't see the line for the seven, but I can see it's shorter than the six.

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So it's easy for me to assume that's a seven cut.

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And if I move to the next cut there, we can see that that's a five cut.

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The one next to it's a five cut.

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We jump up to a four cut, and then we go back down to a five cut.

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So we have the code for this, which is 75545.

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This is a horribly bitted key, except for that far back deep cut on the seven.

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But now that I have this information, what can I do with this?

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This is a great way to get a photo and get the depth cuts, but how do I take this and model a key?

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So a lot of people don't have the skill or ability to sit there and get the warding cut into a key and the proper size, height, and all this, the right angles.

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That would take a lot of work and using something like Fusion 360, AutoCAD, SolidWorks, whatever you want to use.

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Well, that's where a great talk that I believe happened at DEF CON 21 occurred.

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In the credits, I'll have a link to that talk.

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That's on YouTube, I believe, and all the people who are part of that talk.

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But it was something along the lines of key duplication and defeating high security Primus locks.

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And the people who created that created a software called Keygen, and they launched a website called keygen.co.

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This website is absolutely amazing.

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In your type, you select the type of key you're working with.

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Your outline might be like, if it's a five pin, six pin, seven pin, whatever, master lock, padlock, a four pin.

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And then your warding type, depending on which key you're using, might have a different warding.

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And then using the previous slide, we figured out the cuts, like a seven, five, five, four, five.

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You just simply enter that number combination into the bidding and hit generate.

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And this generates an STL file.

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For those of you not familiar with 3D printing, an STL file is the base file you use as your 3D model to generate your 3D prints.

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So here's a quick video demo of me using the site.

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This is not the key I showed you previously.

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It's just a demo real quick, but this is a Kwikset.

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On Kwikset, they only have the KW1 keyway and warding.

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And this is a bidding I entered for a test key I have for an actual lock I own.

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It's 25363.

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I hit generate.

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It takes a couple seconds here, and then it generates this beautiful 3D render of the key.

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I mean, they even have the end of the key to match what it would actually look like on the key.

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You hit download STL.

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It downloads the STL file to your computer.

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And then I opened this up real quick in Windows 3D file viewer.

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They call it print 3D.

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And this is just a basic idea of how it imports.

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It's an absolute perfect replication of a Kwikset key.

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At the time, I was printing this on an Ultimaker 2 Plus, and the slicer software I used for that is called Cura.

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If you don't know what a slicer software is, it's a software that 3D printers print on layers.

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This slices the STL file into layers so that the 3D printer can print.

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Now, I don't print vertically like this because it makes it very unstable and weak, and it wobbles as it prints.

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So the first thing I do is I rotate it flat down to the bed.

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And in this preview, you're going to see this big ring around the outside.

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That's called a brim.

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It just helps bed adhesion.

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When I actually go to print it, I don't use that brim.

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I do print with supports depending on the warding, but for the most point, you don't need to use even supports on that.

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So here's just a quick time lapse.

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I'll probably skip ahead.

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I'm not going to watch the whole thing on this of my Ultimaker printing that exact key we just showed and modeled.

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So if you're not familiar with 3D printing, this is just a quick overview of what that looks like.

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The gap you see on the bottom is part of the warding.

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I didn't do supports on this one because I didn't need them.

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And you can see towards the top there, there's a little bit of stringing between the cut.

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That's simple.

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When I'm done, I usually take an X-Acto knife and just clean that up.

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It doesn't really affect a quick little cut with an X-Acto knife.

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It cleans up any stringing or weird little print artifacts that you may receive on the print.

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So this gives you the general idea.

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We don't need to watch the whole print.

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On average, this print takes between 10 to 15 minutes, depending on your printer, but it takes about 10 to 15 minutes to knock out an entire key print.

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So this is the Kwikset lock I modeled, or that I modeled the key off of.

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This is the key I printed.

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You can see I stopped it early.

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That's why it's cut off on top.

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I insert it in and it turns the key, or it turns the lock, opens the lock.

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One thing to keep in mind here is that this is a deadbolt and this deadbolt is not attached to the actual bolt, right?

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So a 3D printed key will twist this open because there's nothing, there's no resistance from the bolt having to be slid forward and backwards.

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One thing I could suggest if you're worried about snapping the key off in a lock, is you can either use a tension wrench at the bottom, trim a little bit off the bottom of the 3D printed key with an X-Acto knife, and slide a thin tension wrench in, or a small screwdriver to assist the turn.

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Because when you actually throw a bolt, you're going to have a lot more weight behind it and it's going to be a little more difficult to turn, and you don't want to bend or snap a 3D plastic key off inside the deadbolt lock.

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So that's just something to keep in mind.

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So I had this key, but what now?

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I have a 3D printed key.

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3D printed keys are not durable.

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They will not last.

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So I was walking through my local hardware store, Mine's Menards, and I saw the KeyMe machine.

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And I'm not going to get into how much I hate this company and the ridiculous security options they offer.

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And by ridiculous, I mean they don't have them.

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So I printed two keys on this machine.

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And what this is, is if you have a key, it'll duplicate your key for you unmanned.

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And you can see I'm entering... this is a Schlage.

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It's a totally different key.

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I was testing it another time.

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It was a white filament.

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And we assume they use optics to scan this key for depths.

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And it misread the key.

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You'll see here in a second that it misread the first key, thinking it was something that it's not.

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And it failed.

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I had also printed this in a black or a dark , dark gray PLA as well.

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And I'll show you that here in a second and how that works.

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So you can see it says here, this is a less common key.

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It thinks it's some weird Schlage, which it absolutely is not.

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So at this point, I was confused why it wasn't working.

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So I canceled out of this and I decided I'm going to try again.

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And at this point, I went ahead and pulled the white key out and I put the darker key in.

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And it definitely helps.

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So I would suggest if you're going to take this attack vector to the point where you want to try to get a real key made from it, that you use a darker PLA.

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Don't use white.

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Something that's going to be super reflective.

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So here's the darker, dark gray key.

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I'm being very gentle shoving it in because it's got spring loaded shutters on it and I didn't want to snap it off inside there.

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And yes, you did see that correct.

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That is an NFC reader, RFID reader on one side and it's got a fingerprint scanner on the other side.

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The fingerprint scanner's purpose, as horrible as this is, is that you can save all your key profiles in the cloud.

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So if you don't have your key with you, you can always come back and later.

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I don't want to get into the security implications of that.

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So you see that it's $1.99 to get a key duplicated here.

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Standard brass.

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If you'd like, you can get your Mickey Mouse or Darth Vader key, but this is for testing purposes.

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So after tax, it was $2.12.

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This is the part where I turn the camera away as I insert my credit card to pay for this transaction.

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Sorry, this video is a bit of a lengthy video because it took me a minute.

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Before they had this KeyMe, they used to have a machine called MinuteKey.

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And I liked the MinuteKey.

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It worked well.

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It was very simple.

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There wasn't all this extra save your data, all this different crap.

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They're trying to do an upsell here.

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I get a secondary key here for a few bucks cheaper.

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I'm like, no, I'm good.

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I just need to test to make sure this works.

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And then they want your email address so they can email your receipt, aka mark it to you.

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So of course, you know me, I enter my real email address

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and they want to know if you want to save your key for later.

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That's where the fingerprint comes in.

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Hell no.

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Moving on.

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So it starts going down this path where it starts updating you.

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So here's the concept.

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You have a 3D printed key that is not durable.

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However, I can take a 3D printed key, go to an unmanned key duplication system in the very back of a hardware store that is in my local town.

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And I can duplicate this key.

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Now you saw it does have the ability to do higher security keys than your standard Schlage or Kwikset or less common keys, we'll call it.

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To do that though, they do ask for a mailing address because they cut it and then they mail it to you.

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So that's something to keep in mind as well.

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But if you have a standard Schlage, a standard Kwikset or other master lock standard keys that are what this company considers common, it's going to cut this key in front of you and then dispense it out from the machine.

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And again, I have to definitely apologize for the time of this video.

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The other thing is it says that it does have an Android and iOS app that it can scan your keys in home.

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I have not tested this, but I'm planning on it where I'm wondering if I'm able to just set my key down on a desk and the app will scan it.

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So I'm going to be testing that in the because if you could do that, if you had access to a physical key, it'd be set.

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Okay, so the key's done cutting.

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You can see it does an absolutely horrid job.

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You can see little pieces of flashing sticking off where it cut it.

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But nonetheless, you now have a real physical metal duplicated brass key of something you just 3D printed, which is awesome.

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So that concludes the 3D printing and cutting a key.

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Like I said, it's very simple.

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The hardest part is... well, let me rephrase that.

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If you have access to the key, this is dead simple.

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You get the measurements with the key gauge, you type it into keygen.co, you spit out an STL file and you print it and you're done.

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You have a 3D printed key.

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You can take that to an unmanned key duplication because if you go to a hardware store and ask a real person to cut this key, you might get a weird look.

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I'm considering trying that just to see what happens if they'll even do it.

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But you'll have a physical key if you can go to an unmanned key duplication center.

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So now we're going to go into molding and casting a key.

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And this is where you start to feel a little more like James Bond or a spy in this case, because you're starting to do a little more covert, see it in the movies kind of stuff.

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And the cool part is you get to play with fire.

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So where did I get the idea to try this?

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So I've been wanting to try key duplication for a while now.

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But I'd always seen every video, you need a clamshell, you need something to put the clay in to mold this key in.

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And they're always milled or CNC'd out of like an aluminum or some kind of metal.

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And I didn't have access to that.

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I live in a very small city, like population 10,000 people.

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And I didn't know anyone.

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And if you were to send this off to be done, it would be kind of a high cost.

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And then Devian Olof put out a video on his YouTube channel, which if you're not subscribing, I don't know why you absolutely should be subscribing to his videos.

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He put out a video and he talked about how you could absolutely 3D print this.

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So I went out and searched Thingiverse for a 3D printable clamshell.

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And lo and behold, I found one.

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And I'll get into who that's by here in a second.

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So once I saw that, Deviant talks about every little thing you need to cast a key.

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He goes step-by-step process on how to do this.

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So I watched his video, took inspiration from it and tested it myself.

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And here's the link at the bottom.

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If you're seeing that to his original key molding and casting video.

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If you don't know who Devian Olof is, there's this beautiful mug right there.

19:01.310 --> 19:05.010
His website is deviating.net, Devian Olof at Twitter.

19:05.330 --> 19:07.150
Check him out on Twitter for sure.

19:08.290 --> 19:10.150
So we're going to go over everything you need.

19:10.150 --> 19:13.330
There's a much higher bill of materials on this.

19:13.530 --> 19:14.890
So let's go through them one by one.

19:14.890 --> 19:20.430
I try to give you an idea of where you can get them off Amazon pretty cheap and or the prices you can expect to pay.

19:21.630 --> 19:29.350
So in this case, you are going to need physical access to the key you're wanting to duplicate.

19:29.790 --> 19:35.910
If you prepare ahead of time, I'll talk about in a second, you don't need much time.

19:35.910 --> 19:43.010
You maybe need like anywhere between 15 to 30 seconds hands on with that key.

19:44.830 --> 19:59.350
Depending on what you're allowed to do on a job or your story for your job, you could get access to this key for like requesting access to a server room or wherever you're trying to access specifically.

19:59.370 --> 20:05.170
Had you need that key, you may have just enough time to get the mold of that key.

20:05.210 --> 20:08.970
And again, I did this all with a Kwikset KW1 key.

20:09.870 --> 20:13.110
Then you're going to need a low melting point metal.

20:13.630 --> 20:19.490
So I do this demonstration at a lot of cons, and some of these cons have kids.

20:20.530 --> 20:25.650
One metal that Deviant talks about, and if you talk to other people, they suggest is called woods metal.

20:25.810 --> 20:33.870
The problem with woods metal is that it has lead in it and other toxic chemicals that when burnt, the fumes rise up and you're breathing these in.

20:34.350 --> 20:37.110
Woods metal is relatively cheap.

20:37.110 --> 20:39.570
You can get a lot of it for a very low cost.

20:39.750 --> 20:48.590
However, because I was going to have kids, A, touching the metal after they're done, melting it themselves, all this different stuff, I didn't feel comfortable using a woods metal because of the toxins.

20:48.810 --> 20:53.030
And talking to some people in the tool slack, they suggested fields metal.

20:53.730 --> 20:58.030
Fields metal is much more expensive by weight.

20:58.150 --> 21:09.370
I was able to get a small little brick of it, probably about two and a half to three inches by three inches by quarter of an inch thick for about 35 bucks off eBay.

21:09.470 --> 21:11.590
That's the exact link to the one I buy.

21:11.590 --> 21:13.350
This is a reputable buyer.

21:13.450 --> 21:19.830
He's got a hundred percent positive feedback as of this presentation, and he's always sent me the products I've needed.

21:19.870 --> 21:31.810
I did a con in Omaha, Nebraska, and at that con, I ordered five different bricks, and he got them to me, and he was willing to work with me on price, which I thought was awesome.

21:32.010 --> 21:33.090
So this is where I get my metal.

21:33.090 --> 21:33.730
It's fields metal.

21:33.730 --> 21:35.410
It's very low point metal.

21:35.410 --> 21:42.950
Like the picture shows, it melts at about 144 degrees Fahrenheit, and it doesn't have the toxins in it.

21:43.030 --> 21:48.350
And then you're going to need something to melt that brick you get down so you can make ingots.

21:48.810 --> 21:52.630
Deviant has some really cool big melting pot that he bought.

21:52.630 --> 21:53.730
I looked it up on Amazon.

21:53.730 --> 21:55.470
I think it was like 35 or 40 bucks.

21:55.470 --> 21:57.010
He might've gotten it cheaper somewhere else.

21:57.010 --> 22:02.890
But I was walking through Walmart one day in the camping section, and I saw this cast iron skillet, and it was like five bucks.

22:02.890 --> 22:07.030
So I was willing to drop five bucks on a cast iron skillet, which I bought.

22:07.130 --> 22:09.330
Obviously, I'll only use it for this purpose moving forward.

22:10.370 --> 22:18.770
And then Deviant had these perfectly square, small ingots of his metal.

22:18.790 --> 22:26.470
And it just so happened that this ingot was exactly the right amount of metal to mold and cast one single key.

22:26.470 --> 22:31.390
So I reached out to him on, I can't remember if it was Twitter or Slack, and talked to him.

22:31.390 --> 22:33.210
And he's like, oh dude, it's awesome.

22:33.210 --> 22:34.950
And there are these ice cube trays.

22:34.950 --> 22:39.810
So these are these silicone rubber ice cube trays that are meant to make tiny ice cubes.

22:39.810 --> 22:42.950
You can drop them in like in the mouth of a bottle of water or soda.

22:42.950 --> 22:44.430
And they're super tiny.

22:45.030 --> 22:50.890
You can get them off Amazon and you get two trays, which make a ton of ice cubes or ingots in this case.

22:50.890 --> 22:52.790
And they're 10 bucks for both of them.

22:52.790 --> 22:56.690
Again, these prices might be different now, especially with COVID going on.

22:56.690 --> 23:02.930
They could have completely changed because all prices and availability on Amazon are off the charts compared to what they used to be.

23:02.930 --> 23:04.550
But I got two of them for 10 bucks.

23:04.550 --> 23:09.010
So you can either use them both or use one for key casting and one for your ice cubes.

23:10.150 --> 23:11.670
Then you're going to need the clay.

23:11.670 --> 23:17.590
And the clay is what you actually mold the shape and the indent of the key into.

23:17.770 --> 23:22.070
And Sculpey is something that Deviant recommended.

23:22.190 --> 23:29.190
One tip, when you search Sculpey clay on Amazon, select all the colors available.

23:29.430 --> 23:34.750
The reason I say this is that the price varies based on the color you select.

23:34.750 --> 23:35.570
I don't know.

23:35.570 --> 23:36.550
I don't get it.

23:36.970 --> 23:40.590
I've gotten yellow and green so far because they're usually between two to $3.

23:40.690 --> 23:48.370
But if you select black or white or orange, it might be $7 to $10 for the same size, the two ounce size I buy here.

23:49.290 --> 23:54.810
This two ounce size, you can see from the picture, there's indents along each of the thing.

23:54.810 --> 23:57.930
And pretty much it's got four logs of clay.

23:57.930 --> 24:04.030
One log of clay is exactly what you need to cast a key.

24:04.030 --> 24:06.970
So you get a minimum of four castings.

24:06.970 --> 24:11.770
I found that you can reuse this clay over and over again.

24:11.770 --> 24:13.510
It does dry out over time.

24:13.610 --> 24:14.650
It is heat set.

24:14.650 --> 24:15.610
It's oven baked clay.

24:15.610 --> 24:17.770
So heat sets it and makes it hardened.

24:18.090 --> 24:21.350
So you're not going to get 100% reusability over and over again.

24:21.350 --> 24:22.670
And your results might vary.

24:22.670 --> 24:25.850
But I've gotten four or five keys out of a single piece of clay.

24:26.130 --> 24:31.810
But again, it all depends on how hot you heat your metal to before you pour it in.

24:32.610 --> 24:34.650
And then you're gonna need some kind of talcum powder.

24:35.170 --> 24:36.890
I bought mine at Walmart.

24:36.890 --> 24:38.410
I bought the little baby powder.

24:38.410 --> 24:39.870
It's a little size about this big.

24:39.870 --> 24:41.470
It's a travel size baby powder.

24:41.570 --> 24:42.270
And it's perfect.

24:42.270 --> 24:44.750
And this just stops the clay from sticking to itself.

24:44.810 --> 24:52.870
So when you cast the two key or take the two pieces of the clamshell and stick them together, when you pull them apart, they separate without the clay sticking together and ruining your whole mold.

24:54.130 --> 24:56.250
Then you're gonna need the clamshell.

24:56.310 --> 24:58.870
I 3D printed mine from Thingiverse.

24:59.670 --> 25:03.490
ZBZZN Boris is the person who created this.

25:03.490 --> 25:07.650
There's a bitly link I created to link straight to the Thingiverse link for that.

25:09.590 --> 25:12.290
It works absolutely perfect.

25:12.370 --> 25:13.310
It's three pieces.

25:13.310 --> 25:15.130
You're gonna have a left and a right to your clamshell.

25:15.270 --> 25:16.730
And then a base.

25:16.790 --> 25:18.090
And this base is awesome.

25:18.090 --> 25:20.410
In Deviant's video, he had an aluminum one, I believe.

25:20.410 --> 25:27.330
And then he used like a C-clamp to clamp it to hold it together and like kind of stabilize it on the table.

25:27.330 --> 25:29.990
This base you print for it works absolutely perfect.

25:29.990 --> 25:31.070
I love this clamshell.

25:31.070 --> 25:33.450
I've used it over a hundred times.

25:34.110 --> 25:35.830
And there's no deformation.

25:36.310 --> 25:37.990
It absolutely does not deform.

25:37.990 --> 25:38.850
It holds up to the heat.

25:38.850 --> 25:49.730
You have to realize that when you print PLA, you print at a minimum usually of 190 degrees Celsius to 220 degrees Celsius.

25:49.910 --> 25:55.010
And we're only hitting around 140 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

25:55.170 --> 25:58.170
Now, unfortunately, I use American units.

25:58.170 --> 26:01.750
I wish we'd switched to metric and Celsius, but I don't understand it off the top of my head.

26:01.950 --> 26:03.350
So you could do the conversion.

26:03.350 --> 26:08.410
But the point is you never get close to that melting temperature or the glass temperature of the filament.

26:08.410 --> 26:09.830
So you're gonna be absolutely fine.

26:10.370 --> 26:12.090
Then you're gonna need a melting ladle.

26:12.090 --> 26:14.090
This thing was like 10 bucks off Amazon.

26:14.170 --> 26:18.350
It's for melting lead, you know, casting ammunition, things along those lines.

26:18.450 --> 26:19.690
It was 10 bucks on Amazon.

26:19.690 --> 26:22.010
It fits a perfect ingot inside of it.

26:22.010 --> 26:25.670
And you can hold a lighter underneath it to melt that down.

26:28.390 --> 26:29.930
Then you're gonna need a lighter.

26:30.570 --> 26:32.550
Deviant suggested a torch lighter.

26:32.550 --> 26:33.250
I do as well.

26:33.250 --> 26:35.710
I think it puts out a little more heat than just a standard lighter.

26:36.110 --> 26:37.630
But I've tested with fields metal.

26:37.630 --> 26:41.250
You can use like a tea candle or a standard Bic lighter or a Zippo lighter.

26:41.250 --> 26:43.030
It will get it hot enough over time.

26:43.030 --> 26:44.270
It's just not as fast.

26:45.170 --> 26:49.290
If you're like me and you like a cigar renown again, I already own a cigar lighter.

26:49.290 --> 26:55.730
I bought this one off Amazon for 15 bucks like years ago for the purpose of actually having cigars.

26:55.730 --> 26:58.730
It just so happened to work perfectly for this situation as well.

26:59.350 --> 27:02.850
So this is a video of me trying not to upset my wife.

27:03.610 --> 27:12.570
This is the five dollar cast iron skillet I bought from Walmart with the brick of metal of fields metal I bought off of eBay.

27:12.670 --> 27:15.050
I'm slowly just melting it down inside this pan.

27:15.810 --> 27:19.450
I make a very noob mistake here.

27:19.450 --> 27:20.770
Do not make my mistake.

27:20.770 --> 27:30.630
I took a like a kebab skewer and I was making sure it was fully melted and kind of stirring it around to make sure there was no more chunks of metal that it was 100% completely melted on my stove.

27:30.990 --> 27:38.170
And then to make sure I, like an idiot, swirl it around in the pan like you would with butter if you're about to fry steak.

27:39.370 --> 27:42.530
And what I do is I just coat my entire pan with fields metal.

27:42.530 --> 27:45.090
So I lost a bit of metal because of that.

27:45.710 --> 27:51.230
But like I said, I'm not using this pan for anything but melting fields metal in the future.

27:51.230 --> 27:52.470
So it works perfectly.

27:52.470 --> 27:56.510
I put the wax paper underneath the ice cube tray in case I spilt.

27:56.510 --> 27:58.290
That's the only person I have that there.

27:58.290 --> 28:03.210
If I did an overspill, it would land on the wax paper and not my stove and my wife would still love me.

28:03.210 --> 28:05.210
So I quickly just pour this in here.

28:05.750 --> 28:10.690
And you can see that I got a whole bunch of full cube pours and then a whole bunch of random ones.

28:11.530 --> 28:12.990
And then you can see the cubes it makes.

28:12.990 --> 28:15.390
I think I got about 16 cubes out of that one piece of metal.

28:15.390 --> 28:16.910
So that's enough for 16 keys.

28:17.610 --> 28:22.790
One note, when I poured into this ice cube tray, it doesn't fully fill all the cubes.

28:22.790 --> 28:24.610
So what I did is I popped them all out.

28:24.750 --> 28:26.910
Anything that was a full cube, I set aside.

28:26.950 --> 28:30.070
Anything that was a partial cube, I took into my melting ladle.

28:30.090 --> 28:38.970
I melted it down, all the little fragments, little pieces, and I slowly poured them in cube by cube until I got a full ingot for each one.

28:38.970 --> 28:40.570
So that's just a little pointer there.

28:41.950 --> 28:46.610
So now we're going to switch to demo time, aka time to play with fire.

28:47.610 --> 28:52.750
Don't try this at home or if you do, just don't blame me if you get hurt.

28:52.750 --> 28:55.430
I highly suggest you try this at home.

28:56.310 --> 29:08.690
Full disclosure, I've had this demo pre-recorded for a time because it's one of those things that with COVID going on, I've done a lot of virtual conferences.

29:08.970 --> 29:11.790
And with a virtual conference, it's just difficult to plan ahead.

29:11.790 --> 29:14.530
So I pre-recorded the actual demonstration of this video.

29:14.990 --> 29:18.070
So you're going to see here, the background is going to change.

29:18.070 --> 29:19.690
My hat won't, you won't see my face.

29:19.690 --> 29:23.330
It's going to be all on table kind of thing, but you're going to see the whole demonstration.

29:23.330 --> 29:26.790
So we're going to do that demonstration and then I'll come back right after that.

29:26.990 --> 29:27.710
Enjoy.

29:28.390 --> 29:30.530
Okay, so I'm going to get started with my demo here.

29:30.530 --> 29:32.470
I'm going to go over what I have here on the table.

29:33.750 --> 29:35.430
So some of the things you're going to need.

29:35.430 --> 29:37.230
The first thing is a clamshell.

29:37.730 --> 29:40.250
This is what we're going to use to actually mold the key.

29:40.310 --> 29:42.090
This is actually 3D printed.

29:42.370 --> 29:45.630
It's fully available for free download off thingiverse.com.

29:46.610 --> 29:48.570
And I'll try to make sure the links are available.

29:52.950 --> 29:54.690
They're on the base.

29:54.690 --> 29:59.270
The base is pretty much so you don't have to hold this as you're pouring molten metal into it.

29:59.650 --> 30:01.630
It just lets you freehand it.

30:01.890 --> 30:05.890
Speaking of pouring molten metal, the next thing we have here is a ladle.

30:05.910 --> 30:07.870
And this is a lead ladle.

30:08.190 --> 30:11.470
You could use this for pouring lead, but it works perfectly for what we're doing.

30:11.910 --> 30:15.830
So we'll be pouring the metal in to the clamshell like that.

30:16.550 --> 30:20.670
The next thing we're going to need is some sculpting clay.

30:20.670 --> 30:21.630
This is Sculpty.

30:21.630 --> 30:24.210
It's like a few bucks on Amazon for this package.

30:24.470 --> 30:28.650
This package is pre-split into four different bars.

30:29.290 --> 30:32.930
And just one bar is exactly perfect to fill this mold.

30:32.930 --> 30:35.550
You rip that one bar in half and you fill each half of the mold.

30:35.550 --> 30:36.770
It works perfect.

30:37.590 --> 30:40.470
You're going to need some baby powder, some talcum powder.

30:40.570 --> 30:44.010
I buy this nice little jar or nice little bottle from Walmart.

30:44.010 --> 30:48.290
It's like a buck something, just because it's small and convenient.

30:48.870 --> 30:57.450
And I travel with all this stuff in this like pencil bag I found one time at Walmart during school shopping time.

30:57.450 --> 31:00.970
It's like a dollar or two dollars for this zipper bag and it holds everything I need.

31:03.810 --> 31:05.130
You're going to need a lighter.

31:05.130 --> 31:06.970
I suggest a torture cigar lighter.

31:06.970 --> 31:08.150
This is a cigar lighter.

31:08.790 --> 31:13.070
You can't really see the flame on camera I'm guessing, but that's what that is.

31:13.270 --> 31:16.230
And then I also have the metal.

31:16.410 --> 31:18.470
So there's different kinds of metals you can use for this.

31:19.930 --> 31:22.710
A very common popular one is called woods metal.

31:22.790 --> 31:26.550
The problem with woods metal is that it contains lead, so it's toxic.

31:26.550 --> 31:28.550
The fumes it puts off are toxic.

31:28.890 --> 31:32.470
So I would highly suggest against it if you're going to be doing this around kids or in the public.

31:32.470 --> 31:33.850
For your own use, that's up to you.

31:33.850 --> 31:35.510
You decide if that's okay with you.

31:35.610 --> 31:36.970
This is Fields metal.

31:37.230 --> 31:38.910
Fields metal is non-toxic.

31:38.910 --> 31:42.630
I get mine off Amazon and it's like $35 for a brick.

31:42.770 --> 31:46.230
And one brick makes pretty much enough to fill this little sleeve here.

31:46.230 --> 31:54.910
So about 16 little cubes, which you saw in the previous video that I made melting it into a pan and then pouring it in this mini ice cube tray.

31:55.790 --> 31:59.110
So let's get into molding an actual key.

31:59.350 --> 32:01.150
So I have this lock.

32:01.150 --> 32:04.310
It's a Kwikset lock and here's the key for that lock.

32:05.430 --> 32:06.770
It works perfect.

32:07.030 --> 32:09.130
So this is the key we're going to mold.

32:10.470 --> 32:13.070
So to get started, I'm going to move some stuff out of the way here.

32:14.390 --> 32:19.870
First thing I'm going to do is get my clamshell opened up and laid flat in front of me and I'm going to open my clay.

32:23.720 --> 32:27.660
Now I try to open this nicely so that I can kind of wrap it back in the clay later.

32:28.180 --> 32:30.040
That's only because I'm doing it for demo purposes.

32:30.120 --> 32:31.280
This doesn't really matter.

32:31.280 --> 32:38.280
I've actually 3D printed a holder for this clay just because I like to be organized with my stuff, especially in 3D printing.

32:38.560 --> 32:45.540
So if you look at this again, you can see that there's, it's hard, maybe hard to see, but you can see there are these lines that pre-cuts into these bars.

32:45.820 --> 32:48.020
And this one bar is exactly the right shape.

32:48.020 --> 32:56.680
So if I take this bar and break it in half or relatively in half, like so, this is exactly perfect for each side.

32:56.680 --> 33:03.060
So just take one and mash it up, just like play-doh, soften it up just a little bit.

33:03.440 --> 33:09.280
And then what you're going to do, and it's up to you, some people like to take talcum powder and put this in so the clay comes out easier.

33:09.340 --> 33:11.300
For demo, I don't really care.

33:11.400 --> 33:14.840
If you needed to do multiple back-to-back, maybe that would make sense.

33:14.840 --> 33:16.000
Otherwise it doesn't matter.

33:16.840 --> 33:25.060
Anyways, I get into about a shape like that and then I just push it down into the clamshell and try to get as flat as possible.

33:26.080 --> 33:32.140
So I'm pushing it down in, back-filling this big gap at the top, the big void at the top.

33:36.830 --> 33:42.490
And you want it to be as level with the top of this as possible.

33:42.490 --> 33:46.790
You don't want a big bulge of clay sticking up because it won't give you a good mold.

33:46.790 --> 33:49.490
It'll wrap around the key, which you do not want.

33:53.910 --> 33:57.130
So get this as flat as flat as you can.

33:57.970 --> 34:00.150
Again, it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect.

34:00.470 --> 34:03.170
When you squish these two together, you're probably going to get some leak out.

34:03.170 --> 34:03.930
That's fine.

34:03.930 --> 34:05.530
Just get it as best as you can.

34:08.250 --> 34:09.650
So you can see I have it.

34:09.750 --> 34:11.010
It's pretty level.

34:11.010 --> 34:13.290
It's hard to see on camera, but it's pretty level.

34:13.770 --> 34:22.430
Now this part, you're going to want to depress this down in, like so, to create a well because you need some place to pour the molten metal into.

34:22.430 --> 34:25.370
So I'm creating like this lip that I can bend backwards.

34:25.370 --> 34:30.290
And it's just this well because the top of the doesn't need to be molded.

34:30.290 --> 34:31.250
That's not important.

34:31.430 --> 34:35.030
So pretty much you do this again and just repeat it on the other side.

34:36.150 --> 34:41.490
So I'm going to take the clay and again soften it up by squishing it.

34:54.100 --> 34:57.820
And you want to make sure that you go above the border here.

34:57.980 --> 35:00.820
You want that lump and then you want to press it down to flatten it out.

35:00.820 --> 35:05.040
Otherwise, if you try to skim it in, you might get an air pocket below.

35:05.040 --> 35:08.780
And when you squish the key in, all the clay moves down and you won't get a good impression.

35:11.080 --> 35:14.940
Okay, so I've pushed it all down in and I still have a bulge.

35:14.940 --> 35:22.560
So now I'm going to work on getting that bulge down so it's not above the plane of the top of the clamshell.

35:22.660 --> 35:24.940
And again, I'm going to fill this void in on the top.

35:32.320 --> 35:34.260
People have asked me if the color of clay matters.

35:34.260 --> 35:35.060
It doesn't.

35:35.320 --> 35:39.020
Literally, if you go on Amazon, one day one color is cheaper than the other color.

35:39.820 --> 35:41.400
So sometimes you'll see this in yellow.

35:41.400 --> 35:43.580
Sometimes you'll see it in green, black, red, blue.

35:43.580 --> 35:44.460
It doesn't matter.

35:44.680 --> 35:47.860
It is literally just whatever's the cheapest I buy.

35:48.220 --> 35:54.340
Because why pay $8 or $5 for red when green is $1.99.

35:54.960 --> 35:59.640
So okay, so I have that pretty well in there.

35:59.640 --> 36:03.480
I'm going to check to make sure I don't have it too too low.

36:04.040 --> 36:05.260
I think I'm good.

36:05.260 --> 36:09.940
Now I'm just gonna again create that well on the top of my thumb, squishing it back.

36:09.940 --> 36:15.840
So I create a lip and when I put these two together, it'll create a pore spout kind of like this that the metal can go down in.

36:17.160 --> 36:28.480
So now the next important part is to cover these two pieces or these two sides in talcum powder, so that when you push the two clays together, and you separate them that they separate and they don't just stick into one big glob of clay.

36:29.060 --> 36:34.700
So you just take a little talcum powder and sprinkle it on the sides here.

36:35.260 --> 36:39.640
And then just take your finger and rub that talcum powder across the top of all the clay.

36:45.260 --> 36:46.540
Just like that.

36:54.070 --> 36:56.070
Check this, it seems a little bulgy.

36:56.650 --> 36:59.750
Now that I've pressed it down, I'm going to put a little more powder on.

37:00.670 --> 37:03.590
Okay, so we have these both sides coated.

37:03.750 --> 37:04.850
They're good to go.

37:04.850 --> 37:06.250
So I'm done with the talcum powder.

37:06.830 --> 37:08.170
I'm done with the clay.

37:08.870 --> 37:11.230
So the next thing we're going to need here is we're going to need the key.

37:11.870 --> 37:16.430
Now it's important that when you press this down that you think about this key as having two halves.

37:17.350 --> 37:19.150
Have one, have two over here.

37:19.170 --> 37:23.390
You don't want to shove the whole key down 100% into one side.

37:23.450 --> 37:32.550
You want to push it down about halfway on one side so that when you put the other clamshell on top, half the keys on one clamshell and half the keys on the other side of the clamshell.

37:32.710 --> 37:46.250
So to start with, I'm just going to place this in here so that the bow of the key, which is right here, is make sure that that's in thick clay, not in the well.

37:47.030 --> 37:49.790
So I want it down far enough that we're good there.

37:50.210 --> 37:55.590
Okay, and then I'm going to press down and rock it back and forth, just trying to get it down about halfway in.

37:56.290 --> 37:58.550
And just lean in and check on it.

37:58.550 --> 38:01.710
Make sure you're about halfway in all the around.

38:02.590 --> 38:05.070
So now you can see the key stuck in halfway there.

38:05.410 --> 38:13.530
Now the next thing to do is take this clamshell, place it on top, and then squeeze these two pieces together.

38:13.550 --> 38:18.130
Now it's suggested that you stand on this, which I'm not going to do because you're not going to see it anyways.

38:18.250 --> 38:21.110
So I'm just going to place my hands on the table and press.

38:22.310 --> 38:27.110
You want to get a nice firm pressure on this and just stand on it.

38:27.110 --> 38:27.750
Put some weight on it.

38:27.950 --> 38:32.070
Give it a second for the clay to move out of the way for the key to come in.

38:32.230 --> 38:36.250
Because remember, you have the warding and all the parts of the key that you need to get up in.

38:36.570 --> 38:37.730
Okay, that should be good.

38:39.430 --> 38:43.030
Now you want to carefully open this, separate it apart.

38:43.130 --> 38:45.210
Don't rock it back and forth because you're gonna mess up the clay.

38:45.210 --> 38:48.630
Just try to get it apart as cleanly as possible, like so.

38:49.130 --> 38:51.430
And we have a pretty decent impression over here.

38:51.430 --> 38:56.070
It looks like the key sunk in a lot on this side, so I'm hoping this all turns out well.

38:56.870 --> 38:59.750
But you saw how the clay came apart without sticking.

38:59.750 --> 39:01.230
That's because we used the talcum powder.

39:01.310 --> 39:03.090
So I'm going to bend this lip back.

39:03.970 --> 39:07.410
I'm going to use the true method of flicking the key out.

39:07.830 --> 39:14.270
The reason we do this is we want to get it out as fast as possible because if you lift it up, it can cause the tip of the key to dig into it.

39:14.270 --> 39:15.990
So we want to get it out as fast as possible.

39:17.550 --> 39:18.810
So there, it's out.

39:19.210 --> 39:21.310
It shot across the room, but that's fine.

39:21.910 --> 39:24.430
So where do we go from here?

39:24.430 --> 39:28.210
So the next step to do is we're going to go ahead and take these two pieces of clamshell.

39:28.210 --> 39:29.250
We're going to put them back together.

39:30.050 --> 39:31.350
And now we have a void.

39:31.350 --> 39:37.870
Now I'm going to open up these lips on the top to make sure that I can see down into where we're about to pour, which I can see fine.

39:38.330 --> 39:40.410
So I'm going to place that into this holder.

39:40.990 --> 39:42.530
And this does two things.

39:42.710 --> 39:45.050
One, it keeps these two pieces tight together.

39:45.530 --> 39:49.890
And two, it makes it so I don't have to hold this in my hands as I pour molten metal over it.

39:49.890 --> 39:54.430
And if I bump it or miss, I'm not going to end up with melted metal all over my hands.

39:54.810 --> 40:01.790
So the next step I'm going to do is I'm going to take out one cube of my Fields metal.

40:01.790 --> 40:05.290
And again, this metal is meant to melt at very low melting points.

40:05.370 --> 40:08.890
So a candle or a lighter works fine.

40:09.370 --> 40:13.390
And one cube is almost absolutely perfect for your average key.

40:13.390 --> 40:16.190
So like a standard Schlage key or Kwikset key.

40:17.290 --> 40:21.930
So I'm going to drop this in the end of the ladle, like so.

40:22.110 --> 40:26.210
And I'm going to try to do my best here to let you see this melt and how fast it goes.

40:26.210 --> 40:28.330
But it's going to be kind of hard to do.

40:28.330 --> 40:29.570
So we'll do our best here.

40:34.130 --> 40:35.370
So I can already see it moving.

40:35.370 --> 40:36.690
So it's already starting to melt.

40:38.210 --> 40:42.070
And as soon as the metal below it starts melting, you get a little bit of liquid metal.

40:42.450 --> 40:45.250
That metal heats up the rest of the cube and it melts really quickly.

40:45.250 --> 40:46.270
So there it goes.

40:47.050 --> 40:49.270
So now I've got to kind of look at it here to verify.

40:50.210 --> 40:51.950
So it just hit completely liquid.

40:51.950 --> 40:55.070
I'm going to go a little bit longer to make sure it doesn't start solidifying on me quite yet.

40:56.110 --> 40:56.750
There we go.

40:56.750 --> 40:57.610
We're good to go.

40:58.390 --> 40:59.710
And now we just pour this metal

41:04.790 --> 41:05.470
down in.

41:05.470 --> 41:09.510
And I'm kind of doing this because I want it to get down in and I want any air bubbles to get out.

41:10.690 --> 41:12.150
But that should be good.

41:13.450 --> 41:14.950
And now we just let it sit.

41:14.950 --> 41:20.170
Now, depending on how long you heat this for... let me bring this in.

41:20.450 --> 41:23.490
This is silicone, so I can put something hot on it and it won't melt.

41:26.050 --> 41:28.690
Depending on how long you heat the metal for, it's going to take longer to cool.

41:28.690 --> 41:33.450
Now this takes quite a bit longer to cool because it's such a low melting point.

41:33.450 --> 41:39.590
If you use woods metal, the toxic stuff, it doesn't take as long to do.

41:40.150 --> 41:45.050
If you watch any of Deviant's videos, you'll see that he uses... his clamshell is actually...

41:45.050 --> 41:49.830
I think it's milled out of aluminum, which if you think about what aluminum is, it's a heat sink.

41:50.310 --> 41:53.610
So that would help awesome to cool the key faster.

41:53.610 --> 41:56.210
Where this is plastic, this isn't going as a heat sink.

41:56.270 --> 41:59.250
So if you can get a metal clamshell, great.

41:59.490 --> 42:00.430
Again, it's not needed.

42:00.430 --> 42:01.870
This is super simple to make.

42:01.890 --> 42:04.810
It's probably like a few dollars worth of plastic in this.

42:04.850 --> 42:06.490
So it works really well.

42:06.490 --> 42:08.570
You don't have to have metal if you've ever seen it.

42:08.570 --> 42:10.470
When I first started, that's why, again, that's what I thought.

42:10.470 --> 42:12.330
I thought, oh, I didn't have a metal clamshell.

42:12.330 --> 42:13.670
How am I supposed to try this?

42:13.830 --> 42:16.270
And when I saw the 3D printed one, it was fantastic.

42:18.430 --> 42:19.690
So I'm watching the top.

42:19.690 --> 42:23.110
I'm kind of shaking it, and I can see that the center is starting to solidify.

42:23.770 --> 42:25.590
But the sides are still jiggly.

42:25.590 --> 42:29.290
And I wish I could tip this to show you, but if I do, that metal might run out.

42:29.370 --> 42:34.030
So it doesn't have to be cooled down to take it out, but it does need to be solidified.

42:34.350 --> 42:36.930
So we're going to finish letting this go here.

42:36.930 --> 42:38.210
I'm just tapping it.

42:38.390 --> 42:44.290
And pretty much what I'm looking for is if the metal is still kind of jello-y on top, or you can see liquid still.

42:44.290 --> 42:47.410
And as soon as I don't see that anymore, then I'm pretty sure we're good to go.

42:47.990 --> 42:51.010
So there's just a few little spots that are still like that down in here.

42:54.850 --> 42:56.370
We're very close now.

42:57.410 --> 43:00.990
Some very, very small spots still jiggling, which means they're cooling off.

43:01.090 --> 43:06.490
And if you open this too early, and it's not solidified down, you're going to have molten metal just running out.

43:06.490 --> 43:09.050
So better to be safe than sorry.

43:26.520 --> 43:28.000
Okay, it looks pretty solidified.

43:28.000 --> 43:36.500
I'm going to give it a couple, like one more minute here, just to cool off a little bit to guarantee it's good all the way down.

43:37.240 --> 43:42.140
And when we pull this out, you may or may not see some gaps, some air gaps, that's fine.

43:42.140 --> 43:43.540
The key can still work.

43:43.540 --> 43:47.800
The important part, obviously, is the bidding of the key and the warding.

43:48.040 --> 43:49.860
But if there's holes in the warding, we're fine.

43:49.860 --> 43:55.740
If there's holes in the bidding, then we have problems because there might make a dip where it won't lift the pins to the proper height.

43:56.300 --> 43:57.440
Okay, I think we're good.

43:57.560 --> 43:59.540
So I'm gonna go ahead and take the base off this.

44:00.980 --> 44:03.120
Okay, and then we're going to split this open.

44:05.120 --> 44:07.720
And it looks like we have a good casting.

44:07.760 --> 44:10.880
So let's see, well, I've got to keep it in the light so you can see it here.

44:11.280 --> 44:12.420
So there's the key.

44:13.020 --> 44:16.180
And you can see, we just, we don't have the entire top of the head.

44:16.220 --> 44:19.020
We have just enough, though, that we can grab onto it and turn it.

44:19.020 --> 44:21.740
And we can see all the key in here, we can see the warding.

44:21.960 --> 44:23.720
So let's go ahead and peel this out.

44:25.300 --> 44:27.660
So we've got a little clay on the tip, that's not a big deal.

44:27.660 --> 44:28.700
Just pull it off.

44:28.840 --> 44:32.000
So you can see there's a lot of flashing around here and stuff like that.

44:32.000 --> 44:33.100
But again, none of this matters.

44:33.100 --> 44:35.760
And if that bothers you, it's so thin and soft.

44:35.760 --> 44:37.260
Just bend it back.

44:37.480 --> 44:43.060
Okay, now we have a little bit of flashing, it looks like, around this bidding area.

44:44.340 --> 44:49.300
But again, I'm not overly concerned with that because of the way the cut is.

44:49.300 --> 44:52.060
I can just kind of bend that flashing out of the way.

44:52.580 --> 44:54.820
So I think we're completely good to go here.

44:55.220 --> 44:56.980
So now it's the moment of truth.

44:57.260 --> 44:59.100
Because, you know, demos fail.

45:00.180 --> 45:01.120
What's new?

45:01.300 --> 45:03.620
So let's place it into the lock.

45:04.040 --> 45:05.080
It goes into the lock.

45:05.080 --> 45:05.800
That's good news.

45:05.800 --> 45:07.200
Now we'll open the lock.

45:08.020 --> 45:09.020
There it goes.

45:09.020 --> 45:10.740
So there was that little bit of flashing.

45:10.800 --> 45:12.540
So when I first started turning it, it caught.

45:12.540 --> 45:15.940
But as soon as I turned that flashing bent out of the way, we're good to go.

45:15.940 --> 45:19.600
So now we have a fully working duplicate of that key.

45:19.840 --> 45:24.760
So like when we talked about with 3D printing of this key, this key is very bendable.

45:24.760 --> 45:25.700
It's very soft.

45:25.860 --> 45:30.820
But I can take a pair of calipers or again, I can take the key depth measurement guide here.

45:31.820 --> 45:33.460
Let's see, quick set.

45:33.700 --> 45:34.700
Where'd you go?

45:35.320 --> 45:35.980
There.

45:36.020 --> 45:37.760
And I can take this now.

45:38.540 --> 45:42.900
I can get the measurements from this on my own time because I have a duplicate of this key now.

45:43.180 --> 45:45.080
Take my own time to get my measurements.

45:45.360 --> 45:54.100
I can 3D print this key and take this to a key me or a key duplication, unmanned key duplication machine and have a permanent copy of this key forever.

45:54.100 --> 45:56.640
If you only need to get them once or twice, this will work.

45:56.640 --> 45:59.020
Again , this will last for a while.

46:00.680 --> 46:03.940
So I'm making a mess, but like that, it worked perfectly.

46:04.880 --> 46:08.020
However , I want to show that this key is soft.

46:08.040 --> 46:10.540
So I'm going to bend it here just to show you.

46:11.960 --> 46:14.420
That doesn't take a lot of power to bend that.

46:14.680 --> 46:17.200
You can see it's completely bent key now.

46:19.040 --> 46:22.960
But if I lay it on a table, I flatten it back out.

46:23.740 --> 46:25.520
We're still, we should be good to go.

46:25.520 --> 46:26.740
Let me just test it.

46:27.640 --> 46:29.740
Yep, we still get an open.

46:29.960 --> 46:38.980
So that is duplicating key with casting a key and melting metal and casting it in clay.

46:38.980 --> 46:45.380
So let me flip back to my other screen here and we'll continue on.

46:46.340 --> 46:47.200
Okay.

46:47.200 --> 46:48.880
So time to get some credit here.

46:48.880 --> 46:51.660
So first of all, we have the keygen.co.

46:51.660 --> 46:54.280
There's the GitHub repository for that.

46:54.400 --> 47:00.160
And below that is the talk I specifically mentioned earlier where keygen.co came from.

47:00.160 --> 47:07.560
It was from DEF CON 21, key decoding and duplication attacks for the YouTube video of that talk.

47:07.800 --> 47:11.980
And that was done by David Lawrence, Eric Van Albert, and Robert Johnson.

47:12.540 --> 47:13.900
Big shout out to them.

47:14.100 --> 47:17.980
I believe the tool is also available as just a Python script you can download and run locally.

47:17.980 --> 47:19.740
So you don't need to rely on their website.

47:19.820 --> 47:21.560
The website is just super quick and easy.

47:22.360 --> 47:25.460
Obviously, I have to give a massive shout out to Devin Olaf.

47:26.520 --> 47:29.200
I didn't think I could do key duplication before I saw his video.

47:29.200 --> 47:35.920
After watching that video, he gave an in-depth, very, very detailed way of how to do key duplication.

47:35.920 --> 47:40.100
And the fact that he mentioned you could use 3D printed clamshells is what even sent me down this path.

47:40.140 --> 47:42.900
So check out his website and check out his Twitter.

47:44.160 --> 47:48.220
And then the link below that is the original key molding and casting video.

47:48.220 --> 47:55.240
And again, a big shout out to Boris for the 3D printed clamshell that he makes freely available to the world on Thingiverse.

47:55.380 --> 47:59.580
If you go back in the slides, you will definitely see the link to that.

47:59.580 --> 48:04.760
So I want to thank you guys for letting me talk to you today about key duplication.

48:05.080 --> 48:08.140
If you have a 3D printer, please give this a try.

48:08.140 --> 48:08.860
It's super simple.

48:08.860 --> 48:14.180
Just enter a random bidding code, if you will, just to test it out and print a 3D key just so you can see how easy it is.

48:14.180 --> 48:18.520
If you have your own key, go ahead and duplicate your own key just to test it out and see how well it works.

48:18.780 --> 48:20.820
It's super simple using thekeygen.co.

48:20.860 --> 48:26.640
If you have any questions, any comments, or anything else you want to talk about, again, hit me up at Twitter, at Vareli.

48:26.640 --> 48:28.540
It's the easiest way to find me.

48:29.460 --> 48:30.420
And then questions.

48:30.420 --> 48:32.960
If you have questions, obviously I'll be sticking around.

48:32.960 --> 48:34.540
You can find me in the Discord channel.

48:34.540 --> 48:41.040
I'll be available to answer any questions you might have, details about printing, molding and casting, anything like that.

48:41.160 --> 48:44.600
So again, I want to thank you for taking the time to watch this presentation.

48:44.640 --> 48:52.080
I hope you have a great DEF CON safe mode and stick around at the Lockpicking Village with Tool for all the other amazing talks that are coming up.

48:52.280 --> 48:53.480
Thanks a lot.

